(There has been several posts lately about hogshead removal/installing. I wrote this some time ago but never posted it. Thought it might be appropriate now.)
The oil strainer (sometimes called the front hogshead gasket) suddenly stopped doing its job of only leaking a moderate amount of well filtered oil and decided to allow huge amounts of oil to transfer between the transmission and my garage floor.
After a near panic on my part, a forum post assured me that all would be well if I merely replaced the hogshead gaskets, especially the strainer felt at the front. I had never done this before and was somewhat intimidated but a search of the forum provided lots of guidance. Many of the steps below were learned from other forum posts. Be sure to check out this thread:
For the benefit of others about to do this for the first time (engine in car) here's what I learned: (for reference the car was a 1915 touring with an aluminum hogshead)
1. Job #1 - don't let anything fall in the transmission !!! Stuff with rags, use dental floss as a safety line when installing nuts & washers, etc., etc.
2. If the gaskets have been leaking awhile, it can be a dirty job, requiring much cleaning of parts and gasket surfaces.
3. I removed the exhaust manifold and tied the exhaust pipe back out of the way. For some this may seem excessive, but I didn't want anything getting in the way of a clean installation of the hogshead.
4. Tying the bands together with tie wraps or safety wire is a must, but I think the metal clip sold by the vendors is a better solution. I used tie wraps but the center band stretched
the tie wraps just enough to make putting the hogshead back on just a little harder. Besides the flatwrench attached to the metal clip makes adjustment of the bands much easier.
5. When pulling the hogshead off, mine rubbed against the backside of the block. I took a few thousandths off the hogshead with sandpaper where the block interfered. More of a polishing than anything. Made test fitting and installation of the hoghead MUCH easier.
6. I test fit the hogshead twice so I knew what to expect in the final installation. With fresh sealant on the gasket tops you don't want to be slipping and sliding the hogshead during
the final installation.
7. After cleaning all the surfaces that the gaskets seal, I wiped them down with acetone prior to putting on the gasket sealant. No grease or oil = good adhesion.
8. When installing the new gaskets, put the sealant of your choice on the pan and position the gaskets carefully. I used the pan bolts to ensure the gaskets lined up perfectly. Rub
down lightly and allow to set long enough that when you install the hogshead the gaskets won't slip out of position.
9. I was NOT going to use that oil straining felt on the new installation, not with anything rubbed on it, not even dipped in holy water. Per the advice of a friend, I cut a thin cork
gasket 1/2" by x" and coiled it in a circle to give it a curve. Put sealant on the inside of the gasket curve and lay it in the hogshead/engine block gap. (This gap is a little difficult to see and clean if the engine is in the car, but possible)
10. At this point you have installed 4 gaskets, the 2 side gaskets, the rear half gasket and the cork strip in the hogshead/cylinder block gap.
11. Put sealant on the topside of the 2 side gaskets and the rear half gasket, also a extra dab in the corners where all the gaskets meet.......the cork strip in the block/hogshead gap
will be impossible to put sealant on its top. Surround the bolt holes with sealant.
12. If you remove the brake and reverse pedals from the hogshead, it simplifies installation.
13. Put a 3/16" bead of sealant on the front sealing surface of the hogshead. (this surface faces down when the hogshead is installed.)
14. Other forum members have suggested tying the clutch release half moon in an upright position with dental floss. Do it. One less thing to fuss with.
15. Install the hogshead - should be relatively easy as you did one or two test fittings and you know what to expect.
16. I like to finger tighten all the bolts, wait an hour or so for the sealant to begin to set and then finish torqueing them.
17. Finally, install the brake and reverse pedals and their springs, washers and nuts. Again previous forum posts came to the rescue with the idea of tying the springs, washers and
nuts with dental floss prior to installing. Tie the other end of the floss to your wrist or something solid to reduce chances of losing anything into the transmission. I don't think you
can be too careful here.
18. My sealant of choice was Permatex Ultra Black. I'm sure others would work as well. I considered "The Right Stuff", but the quick setting time didn't mesh well with my slow
methodical way of doing things. Ultra black claims excellent oil resistance.
All in all, not too difficult a job and no leaks!
I certainly don't think this is the only way to do the job ... or even the best way. Others should add to this as they see fit. It is difficult to look through all the posts on the forum and come up with a single post that explains the whole job. Hopefully this will be of some assistance.
As Hap says .... respectfully submitted ....
Great post! I am glad things went smoothly and you are back on the road with out having to have a haz mat crew follow you around to clean up the oil spill.