I have a running 1920 chassis and a load of cherry lumber stacked in a barn since 1996 (the last of our Hurricane Fran leftovers...). I'd like to put the two together into a Depot Hack. Any ideas re where to get some plans/drawings?
Jay Cramer of Wagon Works has been selling some excellent depot hack plans since 1999 when they took over the business from the previous owners. His York 803 Suburban depot hack was heavily researched and is a very close replica of the original. His plans are set up for the 1909-25 chassis although they can be modified by the purchaser to work with the “improved car” chassis. You should be able to contact him through a Private Message – go to his forum profile at: http://modelt.org/cgi-bin/discus/board-profile.pl?action=view_profile&profile=jaycramer-users to do that. I do not like to post other peoples e-mail address etc. but you can see that information at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/181669.html
And if you are still in the deciding category, recommend you look at http://www.mtfca.com/gallery/photos/horlick.jpg for another body style to consider. Terry Horlick created his Mountain Wagon and it just looks nice to many of us.
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I'll try and post pictures later today, but I saw almost that exact body on a T at the HCCA tour in Wallace. That one was natural wood color all over except the recessed rectangles he had painted dark blue. It looked really nice. Also, he left out that 3rd row of seats and just used it like a small truck bed.
I got a set off ebay I was not very pleased with. PM me for details if you want.
I think you can do almost anything you want for a depot hack unless you want it to be "like original"
I remember someone from Fallriver Ma wanting to copy the body on our Mifflinberg hack in the late 50's maybe early 60's.
I don't know if they did but I hope they are not saying that it is original.
That's the thing with copies: in almost all cases they will not look like an original. You can schmear a lot of stuff on wood, but it won't look like it's been there for a century.
However, it's possible to restore an original so that it looks like a copy.
The real telling factor is the hardware. Most of the stuff available today does not look anything like the original hardware. I have an original Cantrell body that I bought just for the hardware but decided to replace the rotted wood sections and use it as is. While I was working on it I discovered that it was painted originally and not stained and varnished as most of the Hacks you see today. A bit of research confirmed that these bodies were supplied either way at the customers request. The detail on original bodies makes all the difference. That said Richard you are more than welcome to come and measure my body if you would like as the body is off the chassis for the time being while the frame is being straightened and the running gear is being restored.
I have NOS windshield brackets that let you open the windshield in a depot hack or TT truck wood bodied vehicle
I am using a set of the Wagon Works plans for my depot hack. Jay also fabricates and provides excellent reproduction hardware for anyone who purchases a set of plans from him. The plans are a bit of a challenge to figure out at times, but so far everything is fitting together and should help me produce a detailed replica of an original style depot hack. The plans also include details of the original joinery (mortice and tenon) and provides suggestions on alternative joinery...
Nice work! Thanks for posting. Please take photos and notes about what works well, what works ok, and what you would recommend avoiding. It could be very helpful to others in the future.
Looking at your single photo it looks like you have a 1926-27 rear axle and transmission installed in the chassis. Is the frame, fenders, & firewall 1925 and earlier? Or are you adapting the body to work with a 1926-7 frame?
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Val Your right!
I didn't think about the hardware.
I am glad I still have the original side curtain hardware in a plastic bag.
As far as the chassis, I'm using what I had on hand which was a 26/27 frame and 23-25 sheet metal and as you noticed a large drum rear end. I've had to modify the front cross member, drill new holes (lots of holes) in the frame for the fenders firewall brackets, hood shelves, splash apron brackets etc. It's a mix of parts from several years...