Another THRILL changing the clutch spring from the rear end.
Old spring in the compression/puller:
Pin knocked halfway out:
Old spring beside the new spring:
New spring in place but not yet set inside the retainer:
Closeup of the old spring showing what happens after 93 years of adjusting:
It starts, but I have to find neutral again and see if it drives okay.
Just curious. It appears you have the engine out of the car. Why not remove the pan? Seems it wouldn't have been much more added work.
Those can be a royal pain... Speaking from experience
No, the engine is in the car.
Had to be tight . How did you get the spring compressor in ?
I took off the bottom (3rd) compressor grabber, and only used the two grabbers shown in the photo above.
I found neutral and did all the re-adjustments, but it still does not drive in high well at all?
I used the Ford service manual measurement of 13/16 inch from the clutch driver plate to the front of the clutch fingers adjustment 'pulley'? I was not smart enough to use the 2 inch rule for the spring once inserted.
Even so, I adjusted the 3 clutch adjustment fingers 1 1/2 turns to try and get it to go better in high with no success? I need anyone's advice on what to do next? Thanks in advance. Tony
sounds like your crunched spring was a casualty of, and not cause of high gear failure. That's too bad. I'd bet that there are either too few FORD clutch rings in there, or an aftermarket clutch material that's been worn down or shaved off by a cracked FORD clutch ring. The result would be an overly compressed spring, trying without success, to keep the high clutch firmly engaged.
I'd think that free neutral would be a real pistol to adjust for, too.
It did take me awhile to find neutral. It got down to be trial and error inside my garage between the hand brake, low pedal, and reverse pedal, to find the correct low speed linkage and parking brake bolt adjustments.
So now it's bad, worn, or broken clutch rings which would mean an engine tear down to get to them? Bah humbug!!