Looking for thoughts....... I purchased a new Anderson timer and have set the timing properly.....and have double checked twice that it is wired correctly too. Fully retarded the spark rod is approx one inch from the fan belt. Fully advanced and the spark rod and timer and rubbing on the fan........ and thoughts?
Look at this link Jason:
And if that doesn't help, type into your Google search window:
Timer rubbing fan belt MTFCA
then hit enter
then read some of those hits.
Your answer will be in one (or several) of them.
You don't say what year your car is, but it might be the length of the belt. If the belt is too long, it will be closer to the timer. If you have a 26-27, it could be the direction you turn the eccentric when you adjust the belt. Turn it clockwise as you face the radiator.
Recheck the fan assembly to be sure the correct model year parts are fitted. And be sure the fan belt is correct length, adjusting the assembly for the fan blades to be a bit more to the left than center of the radiator.
This is what you should have at full retard.
And this should be the Anderson timer case position at full advance.
Sorry it's a '12 touring with a short fan arm... I can't seem to post a pic or I would
That's fully retarded
It looks like the timer rod is not bent correctly. Have you checked the height of the piston when fully retarded? The piston should be starting down past top dead center when the spark is fully retarded. Set the piston in that position and rotate the timer in the direction away from the fan belt until the coil just stops buzzing. Then bend the rod to fit when the timer is in that position. Next, rotate the crankshaft slowly two complete turns until the coil begins to buzz again. check piston height. Another way to verify is to check the pin through the front of the crankshaft. It should be at about the 10:00 4:00 position when viewed from the front of the car.
Your photo shows about where the timer should be when fully advanced.
Like Norm said, connect the timer rod and set your timing. If you set the timing to fire at 15 degrees ATDC then the pin in the crankshaft will be at the 9:30 / 3:30 position when the timer makes contact and the spark lever is fully retarded.
Yes that was the procedure I used to adjust the new timer. And the position shown is ( would) be fully retarded, if the spark rod was hooked. Right now it is not. The car starts up perfectly on the crank at the position shown above. Unfortunately it cannot be advanced far enough.
As far as the belt goes what length should be on a '12 with the short fan arm?
If you have the small crank pulley should be 23 inches.
I'm having the same problem with my 26 using an anderson timer. the fan belt is adjusted to the drivers side, i can advance it on the quadrant to the 8 oclock position and no more, and that actualy seems to be all the motor needs.
I have the cam advanced 7 degrees and was wondering if that's complicating things
I measured the belt and it is a 23" belt.
Could it be possible that the cam and the crank shaft at not timed properly? In the picture shown above the timing is set on cylinder on on compression at TDC just starting to go down.......I realize that this look fully advanced...... is there an easy way to determind whether the cam and crank are timed properly?
I don't think it matters... however this car has a stock cam, high compression pistons and a model A crank
The simple solution to your problem is to use a timer like the one on the left.
I bet Hutch at Tip Top Timers could fix you right up.
Yes that would solve this issue..... However why is this like that ? There has to be a reason
Why? It seems to the nature of the beast. Many have reported belt/timer problems with an Anderson timer.
Did you use the actual piston position for timing? Or did you use the crank pin to find TDC? Maybe your A crank does not have the crank pin horizontal at TDC??
Here is a possible way to check the crank/cam timing on a T crank without actually looking at the gears. If you do not have something close to the alignment shown in the photo, that could be why.
Great tutorial !
Timing was set with actual piston position
The anderson must be set per instructions, I have always had to rebend the rod to make one work when replacing a roller type. KB
My first Anderson had this problem (not from the current supplier, TipTop). The cam timing etc was all fine.
I used a cutting disc to carefully make another groove in the rotor about one groove's width away from the original. The locating pin went into this second groove. Then I re-bent the rod so that lever-up, it sparked just after TDC.
That is another good idea. If I understand what you did it would look like:
My only concern is that it may rotate the timer so far that the control rod may not fit or may come too close to or contact the upper timer terminals. I guess that the original groove could be welded closed and a new groove be cut just a little over from the original location. I think the timer only needs to be rotated about 15 to 20 degrees to eliminate the timer/belt conflict.
This modification is really a little more then needed too.