so... im rebuilding my rear end and i am currently in the process of removing the 7 pins located in the axle housing and the spider carrier and i broke an easy out in the center of one of the pins i was attempting to drill out. dont laugh... sighhhh.. any suggestions (boy i sure hope seth from NC doesnt see this... i will never hear the end of it!)
You might try to weld easy out to a hex nut and see if you can back it out.
The best way to remove a pin is to drill a hole thru and use a self tapping screw to jack it out. You could also drill and tap and us a hex machine screw to jack out.
I watched my dad do this: after drilling the center of the pins, he screwed in self-tapping screws. He then took a claw hammer and pulled the pins out, just like pulling nails out of a board.
Hmmm. That's funny Erik. I pretty distinctly remember recommending that exact idea to Mr. Bright here. No pun intended on the last name. Lol
Nathan man, we talked about this on the phone. Screw and claw hammer bro. Mine came out that way no problem. Why mess with what works? Lol I'm cracking up cause we literally had this exact conversation on the phone a couple days ago. It's cool man, if you don't get it before Saturday when I get there I'll bail you out. Btw, no idea on what to do now that you something super NOT drill-able stuck in the middle.
Has anyone ever once anywhere on any occasion ever made an "easy out" work? The principle is flawed because it makes the threaded device expand as it buries itself into whatever portion of the threaded device it is going into then you tighten up and are greeted with that dreaded awful sound of "plink" as it snaps off. I have tried them numerous times and not once was I successful with even one of them. OK so I am an electrical engineer and not a mechanical engineer - that is fair critique but I contend "easy out" is not a tool that does anything but enhance frustration and makes the problem worse every time.
I've had some limited success with an easy out, but you gotta hold your mouth just right....
John is right on on this issue.
I'll bet there are over a dozen easy outs somewhere around my shop (packed home in boxes of junk from auctions).....none of them have ever been used. The risk was never worth it.
I have has some success with easy outs but really like the non-spiral type. Only drive in what you need and does not expand so much.
I think John overstates the case, because I've had them work occasionally, but he's mostly right.
My experience has been that the larger sizes used on head bolts, etc., work great but the smaller ones always break.
For the diff pins, try hydraulic removal: drill a 0.128" (I forget the exact drill size) hole through the broken pin and put a drop or two of oil in the hole, enough to fill the cavity behind it. Put a 1/8" punch in the pin's oil filled hole and strike it with a hammer. The non-compressible oil will push the pin out.
Nathan, if all else fails, grind flush the broken bit, put a thrust washer in its place, mark the holes and drill new dowel pin holes. It does depend on which part of the carrier is to be worked on.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Nathan, removing a broken easy out is nearly impossible. The metal is jut too hard to work with. It sounds like a trip to a machine shop and their carbide bits will be necessary.
Nathan, Find some one with an EDM machine. it will burn out the broken part, the pin and leave the threads alone. Scott
I always drill a small hole in them and tap them with an 8 or 10-32 tap.
Then screw in a bolt that size, it will not cause the pin to expand, and pull on the little bolt with a dent puller slide hammer.
i see other ways that would work well in the above posts too.
On those little pins easy outs are out.
They are not threaded, easy outs work best for turning broken bolts out.
alrighty, well here is how i did it... used a cut wheel on a die grinder to cut a slot for a flat-head manual impact driver, heated up surrounding area with a butane torch and then put an ice cube on just the pin, the used the impact driver.... it is out.. finally... i did try the self tapping screws!! im not dumb enough to re-invent the wheel for fun! haha they were REALLY in there, the easy-out was not my first choice for reasons already discussed... I also think i will leave the easy outs to the pros from now on.
The name "easy-out" was sheer marketing genius. It perfectly answers the age old question, "what's in a name?". It's as useful as "tap extractors", which only serve to add four little sheared off bits of steel to a hole previously only partially filled with a broken tap.
If an easy out actually removed a broken bolt, it would have also been removable with your bare fingers.
I use the left hand spiral threaded part removers on almost a daily basis. Seldom have any problems. I think I've only broken a couple of them over the years. Buy quality ones and they work pretty well. My question on this thread is why would you be using an Easyout on a pin that is not threaded??
hmmm... you have a very valid point Mr. Howe. I figured if i could get the pin spinning it would be easier to take out. also if the easy out had a good bite i could pull on it a little bit.
I've had pretty good luck with the square shank 'easy outs' The ones I used will bend but not break like the spiral type
I used a thread tap to loosen one in mine, it worked because I did not know any better. The screw driver trick sounds good
Handy drill jig tool is the best way for me. Round jig has counter bores, larger one goes over the pin stub, the other end has smaller bore to act as the twist drill guide.
Typical pin wear
Pin removed by drilling it out
Sometimes lucky and the pin base is still stuck to the twist drill for easy removal
I have easy-outs. I have successfully used easy outs. Mostly, I hate easy outs because too many times, they cause more harm than good.
For these pins. If I cannot get the old pin out easily, I drill it out, then tap threads into the hole using the proper three tap method. I make my own new threaded to fit pin by turning down a bolt, leaving the head above. A little Loctite, carefully wrench the "bolt into place. Use a Dremmel Tool to cut off the rest of the bolt and grind the top down to fit under the steel washer.
That is how I have fixed several.
For broken bolts etc. I buy a backwards drill bit. Carefully center the drill and drill it out as far as I have to. Often, the bit, going backwards, will heat and hammer and catch and turn the bolt enough to back it on out. Just as often, I will drill clear through the bolt and have to resort to taps and dies and other punches etc.
Nathan B, I am glad you got it fixed!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2