I finally got around to installing the rear turn signals on the '19 Touring.
I got those fancy rear light brackets that fit over the saddle brackets and tail lights which look very nice.
The light bulbs are dual filament but I grounded one lead so I wouldn't have to run 4 wires to the rear so, essentially, have single filament bulbs.
While hooking everything together with alligator wires to see how things would work I fiddled around and discovered I that energizing a another lead (of the 7 leads) I could also have brake lights with functional signals.
I've looked at the current brake light switches that are out there and don't like them.
Having just rewired my '29 Model A I figured out a way to adapt the Model A brake switch to the T and it will NOT require periodic adjustment and is a much more substantial switch.
The only additional thing I added is another spring to make SURE the brake pedal returns all the way.
It wasn't difficult to do and works like a dream.......
Gotta LOVE coat hangers!
They are what I am using to actuate the switch and pull the brake back all the way.....I MIGHT change that........some day.......
I have used the '29 model A switch on a few cars also. Most brakelight switches are too limited in their travel. Getting them adjusted to light the lamp early enough without bottoming out when the brake adjustment wears down was very tricky, and sometimes impossible. These have a very long stroke, adjust for the lamp to come on and should never need resetting.
I do not recommend drilling a hole in the brake pedal arm, I don't like offering a point for it to break. I just tie the "coat-hanger" around the arm just over the shaft. It seems to have enough travel and the switches seem to work very reliably.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
This is how I do it. Cheap, easy, robust.
Thanx Erich for the picture.
I am using the same switch on my T's. I use a coathanger wire and spring to connect it to the brake pedal. Spring keeps it from bottoming out.
Same here. I have a piece of screen door spring in between the switch and the brake pedal.
I don't use a spring, I do it just as Erich has done, a couple of loops of mechanics wire around the pedal. I've had Model A switches like this on my T's since the 70's, with no failures. If one did fail however, they are cheap to replace. (About $10.00)
WELL.......it looks like coat hangers save the day again.......
If it's good enough for you guys it SURE as heck is good enough for me!
That custom wire linkage on my car was may look as if it was whipped on there lickity-split but was painstakingly calibrated. Has been working well for several seasons now. Thanks Tom for the idea, and the part.
Also, you may notice there are 3 wires. One is the power, one is for the lights on both fenders, one is an overkill wire to a center mounted light mounted on my spare tire carrier. Can never be to safe.
Mine is a simple piece of strap metal that is mounted across the two center screws in the trans cover and has a 90 degree bend on the end with a push button switch mounted through a hole in the strap metal. Real simple and it works.