Last night l installed an aluminum intake on my 26. After much fiddling with the gaskets and clamps, l finally achieved what seemed to be a proper fit and seal. The aluminum casting was striking the exhaust manifold in a few spots, causing grief. Upon taking a quick 20 mile test run, the main difference noticed was that it took more throttle to go the same speeds as in the past. Does this point to an intake leak, or is that a characteristic of the high volume manifolds?
If you need more throttle at all speeds, could it be that the change in manifold has moved the carb to a slightly different position and that this is the cause of the different throttle position rather than a performance issue? Just a thought.
Dave, a friend of mine recently installed a intake such as you have and had to file the places that hit the exhaust and said also the height of the clamp bosses. Once that was done he said that all was well. You could have a leak. KB
If it's an original Ford aluminum intake I don't think I would do any filing. When I installed mine I found that I had to kinda tuck it up and under the exhaust manifold to install. The arm for 3 and 4 seamed the tightest. You might try relaxing the clamps and kinda jiggle things around for a better fit.
I had the same problem in our 26 Tudor, just file ( if it is a repro ) and gain your clearance, it will fit nicely then.
Cant say l have to use more throttle, although Russ Potter did rebuild all of my carbi's for me.
Is this the repo intake thats being made to boost engine performance? Seems like I saw these being sold at Chickasha.
Has anybody used these and noticed better performance on a stock T engine?
It is a repro unit and I did have to lick it with a file at the top of the castings to get it to fit. The idea that the carb may be in a different position is interesting. Something that l'll be sure to look at. What's a good way to check for an intake leak? I was going to make a flat gasket, without the hole, to go between the carb and the intake and then slowly hand crank it to see if I hear air being sucked in at the block.
Dave, While the engine is running, squirt some WD 40 or something similar on top of the aluminum intake where it contacts the block in both locations. If it bubbles, you have an intake leak.
Not to be a smart-aleck, but wouldn't it be sucking in at that location and not show bubbles?
Try holding an un-lit hand-held propane torch with the valve open next to the ports. If the engine speeds up you have a leak.
Now, the propane idea sounds excellent. Since we are going to a parade this weekend that is 60 miles away, l decided to remove the high volume manifold and put my old cast iron one back on. I will mess with this shiny bugger another time.
Franklin, that is one of the simplest and quick ideas l have heard in a long time ... great idea.
Water will make the motor stumble if it sucks any in. Cheaper and safer than propane. Scott
I have never tried it, but have heard that you spray WD40 around the manifold, if there is an intake leak, the added fuel from the WD40 will cause the engine to speed up. I would think it would have to be a considerable leak if that worked.
As for the propane idea? It can work, but is not recommended. Propane is colorless and heavier than air. Unless you are very careful aiming and controlling the propane, it can fall and/or blow to the carburetor air intake and cause the engine to speed up causing a "false positive". It also does have some explosive risks.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Using WD-40 is the same as using your propane torch. It is not the WD-40 that burns, it's the propellent.
If it's an engine with intake and exhaust on opposite sides I use starting fluid to test for intake leak - very evident when it's leaking. Would be dangerous on a hot T exhaust, but could work on a just started cold engine?