I have an engine that was rebuilt in 1980 but never put back in the car. Question: should I disassemble, clean, and reassemble? Or complete assembly (rockers, etc.) as is? Here are a few photos:
I'd rather not take it apart if I don't really need to, but will if I have to. Thanks for all input.
I guess I should have asked, can I clean the engine as necessary for installation into the car without disassembling it any further? Thanks again.
I expect the rust in the pictures isn't all there is. I'd be very surprised if the humidity of thirty-two Ohio summers hasn't done some of the same on the inside. If it was rebuilt, the parts should be unworn and need only rust removal, but I'd sure take it apart and clean whatever needs it. With all the guts out you could sandblast that block and give it a decent paint job.
Thanks, Steve. I should've noted the engine was stored in a garage in NY all those years. Just don't want to get hip deep in it and find out I can't complete what I start.
With those open ports, can say with 100% certainty that no little nut, bolt, etc., hasn't found its way into that motor? Are any valve stems stuck? Is there any rust on the bores? You don't know till you look.
Engine was wrapped until recently, so, I'm sure there nothing has got inside other than air. All stems move freely. Engine will be on a stand within the next day or two, so I'll be able to tell more soon.
Here's another photo, though you can't really see much.
I see a rust pitted camshaft.
If it was mine, I'd take it apart, clean it up, recheck all the clearances and reassemble it. It's out of the car now, would you really want to install it to find little secrets that need to be resolved.
Then again, any time I get something with an unknown history, it's probably coming apart before I put it to use.
If it was mine knowing what it's worth I would take it apart and clean it up. You would only be out $90 for the head Gasket.
Newby here: Those look like aluminum pistons. But I don't see any oil holes in the pin bosses...
I would take it down to the point I was comfortable with what I had. The best surprise is no surprise.
I agree with Franklin, oil holes and also do away with the wire on the wrist pin bolts, just use a split pin.
So, I'll need to drill oil holes in the pin bosses, and use split pins instead of the wire on the wrist pin bolts. What's the chance I can re-use the head gasket? It's never been run. Thanks again.
Not a problem if it is a copper one, spray it with Permatex copper gasket sealant, or other brands? that do the same job and the normal re-torqueing procedure.
Do you know who did the assembly in 1980? Was it someone who did lots of engines that ran well or some unknown amateur?
If it turns without too much effort and was assembled by someone I trust, I think I would have left it alone - maybe my job wouldn't be as good as the original assembly.. It really doesn't look too bad to me. A never run head gasket should be reuseable btw.
Be careful when assembling the transmission to the engine - everything should be balanced and the transmission shaft should be checked for runout.
If the flywheel has too much runout, that may turn out to be a reason for teardown - to square up the flange on the crank shaft?
Kerry - Thanks, it is a copper/sandwich type head gasket.
Roger - Yes, I know the shop in Binghamton, NY. It was a speed shop that did various engine work for many local folks, and knew what they were doing. Babbit bearings were poured by a shop in Glens Falls, NY. I know it has new valves and guides, cylinders bored, new pistons and rings, crank ground, new crank and cam gears, new cam bushing, and was align bored.
I'll have it on the stand this weekend, and will see if she turns okay. You read my mind; I don't have the tools/resources/experience I need to insure I do an adequate job reassembling if I d have to take it apart. I'm working to contact some local help here in the Dayton, OH area. If anyone knows of any local folks who can take a look and advise me, that would be great. I need all the help I can get, and I surely appreciate all the input I've received here on the forum.
The rust pitted cam lobes and grungy crumbly paint job and paint chips in the valve gallery are a warning sign that it may not have been a "high quality" rebuild. Many many times I have seen "completely rebuilt engines" that when disassembled and checked, have very few re-usable parts. I have found that "rebuilt" in most peoples vocabulary simply means "taken apart, cleaned with solvent, re-oiled, re-assembled, & painted"... I have also seen some very questionable work come out of "speed shops"; poorly ground cranks & cams, improperly balanced parts, shoddy clearances, etc. There also seems to be an issue in some "modern shops" where the rebuild quality isn't what it needs to be because the shop personnel also figure it will hardly ever get driven...
I hear you, and see your point. The shop that did the work in 1980 had an excellent reputation locally, and I know that several others in the area had engine work done there on their T engines. I'd love to have the engine gone through professionally, but it's simply not an option now. I'll do what I can on my own with any assistance and advice I get from the folks here, and other T owners locally.
On a good note, I have the engine on the stand. After applying a little penetrating oil, I cranked her over without too much effort. She's snug, but turns through well. Here are a few more photos:
When I was young, there was a shop in town that put out Sherwin Williams overhauls.
I think with a serious study, one could figure what the locals meant.
About the best thing you can do, besides getting it as clean as you can before you assemble it, is to change the oil very frequently (maybe every 50-100 miles at first) during the first several hundred miles of use, and always drain the oil when it is hot after an hour or so of use and immediately after you shut it off. This is when many of the small particles will still be in suspension with the oil. Also remove the engine pan inspection cover and the "horse-shoes" once per season and clean all the sediment from the "troughs" as well as from behind the shoes. These are spots that sediment usually collects.
Adam - That I can, and most definitely will do. It's getting it as clean as I can prior to assembly that may be a challenge. I can use kerosene, or some other petroleum based solvent to get it cleaned, and will then need to degrease the exterior prior to painting the block. I'm thinking it would be a good idea to clean, then assemble (including the pan and valve covers) before prepping for painting, but again, I'll listen to all input. Thanks.
If it is not an oil pressure engine, I would put dippers on the rods, just for fun and longevity.
You can clean off grease and oil with gasoline (outside, away from any flame), paint thinner, or kerosene (very costly). But to remove any oily residue those would leave, I'd do a final cleaning with lacquer thinner.
Did anyone mention the cam timing gear? Check if it is fiber to maybe replace. I know some have used them forever and others never use them but check it out and do what you think is best. Good Luck Jim
Jim is right. You don't want this.
Yeah, it's a fiber one. Just checked. It is brand new though. Thoughts? How tough is it to replace?
Simple, just back off the nut and remove the gear. You may want to take a Chinese 1-1/8 combination wrench and heat and bend it to offset the open end so it grips the nut easier. Line up your zero marks when you install the new gear.
Your engine wears a generator. You definitely want to get rid of that fiber gear.
Dave, when you get your engine running, I would use a magnetic drain plug and a transmission screen with a magnet in it also. That will pretty much take care of any ferrous metal particles that may be floating around and the screen will help with anything else. Dave