My dad and I pulled the inspection cover on my '23 Touring and filed rod caps in an attempt to get rid of a rod knock I've had since we got it running. This is actually our second attempt. The first time, we did #4 (what a pain!) and #2 cylinders, based on grounding the plugs. But it didn't get rid of the knock completely. So we dropped it again this past weekend and tightened all of them up. None of them had shims. Knock's all gone! Now I can run down the road without having the engine sound like it's about to fly apart!
Also, repacked the front wheel bearings while we had it up in the air.
What'd you get done?
I completed the spark plug wireing(don't like them but they work) Repaired the Ig.Sw., added fuse. Starts easy(using dist. My choice) just need to fine tune and find sweet spots. Then around the block for a try this next week.
Always something to do, Ts and other things.
rebuilt my first rear end!!! with the help of a good HCCA buddy.
I finished a 1913 rear axle rebuild. I also replaced a brake shoe spring on the fordor.
All I did was replace the ancient capacitors in my coils. That got rid of all the high speed miss and the off idle hesitation too. I drove the car from Hamilton Ontario to Toronto and back, about 150 miles. The car ran perfectly.
I drove mine to a nearby village for a centennial celebration
Sold it. (sigh)
I replaced the timer with one from Tony Wiltshire complete with a carbon brush - Because I am fed up with being covered in oil and not being able to see what I am doing when I work on the timer (bearing in mind that being RHD the rod attaches under the timer not on top) I removed the radiator and fan to improve access. While I am there I am going to replace the Commutator wiring harness as well -Karl
Just gave the old girl a bath, and a good detail.
made more patches
Not T, but continued to "fine tune" the Model K (T on steroids ). Now I have it o where we can shift to high at 5 mph and pull up to speed.
I'm having trouble figuring out the "high speed" adjustment on the Schebler carb.
Also, If someone has an idea, I suspect I should check plug gap (seems like not enough power at low speed, but it idles and runs at speed great).
Ignored it all weekend so I could attend track meets, and church functions, been 2-3 weeks now since I've done anything, yuck.
Worked the rod caps down to about .002 on 1 and 2. Think the knock is gone but not ready for road test. This is on the old truck I recently acquired. Drove the coupe to the Half Fast Motoring Society breakfast Sat morning----running good!!!
I reassembled my '26 transmission using Joe Bell's advice and some of Dave Huson's steel clutch disks. Joe rebabbited my fourth main and cleaned up the output shaft so everything looks real nice.
I have a real easy way to compress the clutch spring. I use a couple of parallel bars on the spring end and stick my drill press chuck into the bushing end and use the quill like an arbor press. I know my drill press wasn't designed for this purpose but it sure went together easy.
Took the 1912 to a car show and beat some more muscle cars, T birds and corvettes. Folks love seeing Model Ts. Instead of a trophy, we got a whole cooked BBQ brisket for first place...a true East Texas car show! Lol
Mine got a little closer to being at the front of the line to get some much-needed attention... I worked on everything but the Model T this weekend.
I thought about getting around to doing something, other people had different ideas.
Discovered the source of my head-bolt leak. It's the front bolt in the centerline of the head, just underneath the passenger-side ear of the water outlet. I thought the block might be cracked, or maybe I had a bad seal with the head gasket.
I actually have a small crack in the head on the edge of the flat surface where the head bolt goes. Between that flat spot and the corner where it was machined down beside the curve of the water outlet. Will post pics later.
Unfortunately I drained the coolant and pulled the head before I discovered the precise location of the leak. Oh well. I need to change the oil/fix my leaky, loose pedals/ and stop all of the hogshead leaks this week anyway.
I am working on replacing the rear outer axle seals on my Coupelet. Pulled the old leather/steel ones, cleaning out the bores to put in the neoprene type.
Not a specific T, but T equipment. I've always been undelighted by my engine stand. A block or engine by itself would rotate without much trouble, but with a transmission on the engine it was just too end-heavy to rotate without a struggle. So I spent the weekend adapting the stand so it can be adjusted.
Here's the stand with just a block on it.
With no transmission, the center of gravity is
between #2 and #3, just below the water inlet, so that's where you set the pivot.
With engine and transmission together the center of gravity is at #4, so the adapter slides over to put the pivot there.
That allows easier rotation, but the transmission still makes the whole thing bottom-heavy, so turning it still takes some muscle. I intend to add a provision for a long handle for leverage to make it turn easier.
Tuesday I put bands in a friends 26 roadster, Wednesday I put shims in my rear wheel of my 26 Coupe,
Friday I went and helped on a touring,
Saturday I put my wheels back on and put my horn back on after going thru it.
Sunday I bought a 31 Model A, put a Z head on another friends TT and helped put inner and outer seals and Rocky Mt brakes on it as well. Whew I need a break !! :-)
Yesterday I sold my 1927 cut off touring with the home made turtle deck/rumble seat.
Leaving soon to tow another home
Bought some things at Little Hershey and Bob's. (Bob, BTW made me a VERY happy camper, and was quite patient with me as I tried to remember everything I needed, and what it was actually called) I then cleaned out the 2nd stall of the garage and moved the body over to finish the wood strip deck. (speedster)
received my new rear fenders last week so this week-end I cleaned them up, got them primed and shot them with color and I'm now waiting for the clear to dry.
Cleaned it, oiled, greased it, drove it in the Irvington Home Tour. Sure was fun.
I went for a ride.
you are the man, for crying out loud!
that's too cool. Now to add some all-thread and put a crank on that pivot adjuster and you'll be all set!
Funny you should mention that. I thought about it, but I need to use the thing now. Maybe I'll add a crank later.
Excellent engine stand Steve.No work on the Autowa roadster but went to Little Hershey in Belvedere on Saturday. I felt it was a good turn out.Needs to be even more T stuff;sheetmetal,bodies that sort of stuff.I got some good deals,1919 hogs head,rim flaps,a high head,top irons and misc.Very friendly staff from Rockford T club.