My hogshead is slowly but surely making a mess on my garage floor. I know that T's leak and mine is a driver so I expect some drips. However, I've reached the my saturation point with the oil on the floor.
I've heard that there is a way to install some O-rings on the pedal shafts that will go a long way towards slowing the oil down, but what is the really correct fix?
My pedals definitely have some play in them, I can wiggle them a little so the hole in the hogshead is wallowed out some. Just not sure how I'm supposed to fix that correctly. Even if I do, I will probably add O-rings anyway.
For the O-rings, where exactly and how exactly are they installed??
Thanks for the input!
Try this link
AND look at the link in that post.
For the pedal shaft leaks you can undercut the cams for the o rings so you don't have to modify the hogshead. The high speed clutch shaft towards the rear is done with 2 o rings on the inside of the tranny and springs to push them tight against the hogshead.
The MTFCA booklet on the transmission shows the clutch shaft o ring fix.
Most of the time, the shaft holes in the hogshead are out of round, limiting the effectiveness of any O-rings on the shafts. Bore the holes and bush them back to standard, then either groove the shafts for an O-ring or else make the bushings in two sections so you can press in one half, then an O-ring, then the other half, which will keep the ring securely in place.
A good idea is to make up a few sets of bushings, making replacement when they wear a simpler job.
Seth, I used the "o" rings on the 24 that I eventually sold. It worked very well and was an easy fix once you get the hogshead off. We were using about a quart of oil every 50 or so miles. Son Bryan used the car on tour and it was always easy to follow his T tracks!! I got the rings from Langs and I think it had instructions with it. Dick C.
Hey RV, what did you use for bushing material and how did you make yours? My main concern is making sure I fit the pedal shafts really well and that I have a drill bit that matches the OD of the bushing really well.
I don't have any problem with installing the O-rings behind the cams. But when I got down and wiggled my pedals I thought "Hmmmm, there's got to be a way to really correct this. The oil is just a symptom of significant wear." So I think that the best way to go would be to drill out the
Hey seth, how about sliding a bicycle innertube from a road bike (skinny tires and tubes) over top of the petal and then on the shaft and up on the hogshead. Its not a glorious solution but installing o-rings would be easier with your removing bands which im pretty sure your not gonna do untill next year. Perhaps a band-aid solution for the time being.
I'm going to remove the hogshead and then figure out how hard the bushing approach is going to be for me. I may see how much Chuck would charge me for that part - sourcing some appropriately sized bushings and then drilling the hogshead.
The rest of the hogshead I'm pretty comfortable with re-sealing. Even with the bushings I'll still install the o-rings.
The more expensive solution is to find another hogshead and fix that one pedal shafts, seals etc...
Then pull and replace the one on the car.
I like to make repairs like that whenever I can that way I limit my down time and can use the car up till surgery time.
Does the speedster had a '14 engine in it? or a latter one?
The speedster does have a '14 engine (block number 518424). That, the frame, headlamps, and radiator are really what keep it a '14. It's got a later 20-something engine pan, 20-something (but not '26-'27) rear end, and 20-something steering column. Plus I have 21" demountable wheels/rims.
I really like your approach Larry, I just can't afford it! Lol. If I could, I'd have all sorts of other things already on the car. She's hanging out in the garage waiting on me to fix a bunch of little things that I discovered after taking her on the HCCA spring tour.
Today I hope to have my custom horn bracket re-welded and strengthened, oil drained, hogshead off, pistons scraped and cleaned with block prepped for head re-installation, and the head crack fixed and sealed up with some marine JB weld.
Embrace the essence of the Tin Lizzie.
No oil on the ground = none in the engine.
I put in some over sized shafts from Snyder. Memory says'0.005' oversize. Took an adjustable reamer and when I had a nice sliding fit, there was little wobble in the shafts. Sho a lot better, allows the O-rings to work.
Just use a large drip pan. Less work and it keeps the floor clean.
Model T Ford, helping put oil back in the ground for over 100 years.
Naval bronze. This is the modern name for Ford's Z bronze. It's a little tougher to machine because it has no lead, but it has excellent wear properties.
Seth, I don't know if you are using an alloy cover or not, but I have re-built a number of them in the following way.
I use an adjustable reamer to ream the pedal shaft holes to take a stock item thin wall bronze bush available from my local bearing supplier. The bushes are fitted with loctite to make sore they stay in place. These can be reamed to suit new pedal shafts, but this is not usually needed.
I leave the one on the open end of the clutch fork shaft hanging out of the cover and install a cup type freeze plug in the bush to close that end.
I made a fly cutting tool from a 6" long 5/8" bolt by drilling the head end of the bolt and tapping a thread into it to take a grub screw. The bolt is cross drilled at a slight angle and I use a small piece of 1/4" HSS as a cutter. The grub screw holds the cutter in the bolt and allows adjustment of the depth of cut.
The tool is driven with a speedbrace to cut a seat in the bush and alloy hogshead to accept a single lip oil seal. These are tiny and you have to look really hard to see them when fitted. I had 15 years of motoring in my 1912 van before I had to replace them. I knocked out the bushes at the same time and fitted new ones in their place.
Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.