My '26 has been slipping in high gear since I bought it. Low, reverse and brake work properly
1) I screwed in the clutch adjustment screws 1/2 turn (no change) additional 1 turn (now no high gear at all) additional 1 1/2 turn (all the way in) still no high gear.
2) Handle brake neutral is adjusted properly
3) Over the weekend, we pulled the rear end and installed a new 102 lb. spring (old spring was short and bent)
Still no high gear
Are we missing something or have we narrowed it down to it has to be the clutch pack?
Any advice would be appreciated. I do not want to pull the motor if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance.
Until someone posts another idea, you can find some past solutions if you type
High gear slipping MTFCA
in your Google search window
Did you check the clutch to see what type is there?
Did you set your spring at 2"?
Are you closing the throttle when you shift or 'power shifting'? Once it is slipping, it doesn't quit until the engine is slowed down to the same speed as the tranny.
After you adjusted the clutch finger screws did you re-adjust the clutch pedal linkage? If it is adjusted too long the clutch will not be able to fully engage. If you gently pull back and forth on the clutch pedal with your hand there should be a little free play.
From what you are telling us, I believe you need to pull the clutch pack. The say it can be done in the car, but I have never tried it.
I am curious as to what style pack is in your trans. While the Watts and Turbo clutches have potential for wear and loosening the clutch pressure, the original steel disks do not and have serve me well for as long as I have run T's.
What type of discs are you using in the clutch pack, the originals or turbo 400,s or similar jack rabbit.
My guess is that it is missing 1 plate ( should l say 1 pair).
If all in and turbo 400's, they could be worn well past the point of replacing.
Turbo 400's are either good or cheap crap that last very little mileage, this subject has been listed in the past month or so.
Just a couple of ideas to add to the mix.
Sounds like one of the aftermarket clutch types has burned out. While you have it apart you can install a good original style clutch. You won't ever have any clutch trouble again.
Thanks for the advice.
I am reducing engine speed when shifting
the clutch pedal has the proper amount of free play
I have not measured the compressed spring (I will), but the clutch adjustment screws are all the way in.
I do not know what type of clutch is installed.
I guess we are going to be pulling an engine.
Is your clutch spring formed of square cut metal , or round stock ?
Had round stock spring fail by slipping over retainer, rode on the ball cap housing, thus lost spring pressure even with screws fully adjusted to maximum.
I have a Watts clutch now with a tested Ford square cut spring..... no problems and happy driving.
Did you check the distance between the front of the pulley where the forks ride and the back of the clutch plate, it should be 13/16". With this correct, the spring should be 2" long.
If these measurements are not correct, you have problem with wear or setup somewhere. Could be plates worn out if modern materials or number of plates wrong if original.
Check out the cam on the parking brake shaft. When the brake lever all the way forward. The adjusting screw should not be in contact with the cam. If it does contact the cam, the shaft is bent or twisted. Another thing which can cause this same problem is if the brake rods are too long. They will force the lever back engaging the cam.
Bob, the clutch spring is square stock
Norm, with the parking brake all the way front the screw does not touch the cam.
Tony, I will check the measurements tonight and report back.
Correct me if I might be wrong, but if you install a new spring, shouldn't you screw the fingers back out? And re-adjust the drive plate flange face and clutch fork clearance to 13/16" of an inch?
"the clutch adjustors are all the way in". Can you even do that? Unless a set of plates is missing that is?
I think he meant that he screwed them in to the point where they would not go in further. They will eventually bottom out.
Thanks for all your help.
Sorry for my delay in responding with measurements. A medical issue intervened.
I measured the distance between the pulley and the back of the clutch plate. It is exactly 13/16". The spring measurement with the clutch handle all the way front is a shade less than 2".
I double checked all the measurements/ adjustments that others mentioned.
Still no high gear.
I guess the only thing left is to look at the clutch plates?
If there's no one in your area, send me a private message, tell me what days you are available, and I'll drive out to you and take a look at it. I'm only 2 hours away.
^ "ONLY 2 hours away"......what a guy!.......
Two hour drive is a handful of great old songs on the wireless ... now where are those pesky B batteries ...
Thanks for the very generous offer William. I do have someone close by that is an experienced T'r.
This one had him stumped. We thought when we pulled out a bent spring we had the problem beat. I just wanted to make sure we had explored all possible options before pulling the engine.
It looks like now we have.
I am interested to see what type of clutch pack is in there. Whatever it is, I have a new set of the original style to go back in.
I don't know when we will pull the engine, but I will update everyone on the results.
Thanks again William for the offer, and thanks to everyone for your counsel.