On this 1914 Touring I'm helping friend get back on the road, I have encountered yet another problem. We purchased the muffler with cast iron ends and a new tailpipe. The pipe needs to be cut in order to fit properly between the exhaust manifold and the muffler. But here's the problem: Inside the muffler's neck is a round tube or stud. I assume the tailpipe end must be notched to fit past this tube/stud? How does the tailpipe then become secured inside this cast iron end? No clamp will compress the cast iron neck around the pipe. Is the pipe supposed to simply be crammed in as deeply as it will go? That doesn't seem secure enough or a good way to stop exhaust fumes. Maybe muffler cement around end of the tailpipe as it is forced inside the cast iron end? I can't believe it came that way from the factory!
Another new one on me! I always used the standard muffler that allowed a clamp to secure the tailpipe in place. What am I missing here with this muffler's cast iron ends? Probably something simple!
Thanks in advance.
The pipe should not be clamped to the muffler end as it was intended to be a sort of "swing-joint" so as the leverage of the pipe would not crack the manifold if/when the car was driven on uneven roads.
Steve has it right. The pipe simply fits into the muffler end without any clamp. This allows the pipe to expand and contract with heating cycles, without exerting any stresses on the manifold. It may leak a little at the slide joint, but that is the nature of the beast. On used mufflers the joint can rattle a bit but that can be reduced with a shim cut from a tin can.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Thanks, guys. So, do I also notch the pipe so that it slides deeper into the muffler's snot?
No it does not need to go in that far. The exhaust fumes should be far enough back not to be coming in an open car, if they were they would come in from the tail end also. On top of which, it will more then likely have blow by around the outer shell. From your description, you got the wrong muffler for a 1914. It should have 3 bolts holding it together and a real (short) tail pipe.
If the fit of the pipe into the muffler is too loose, you could enlarge the pipe a bit using a tail pipe expander. Do follow the above advise and don't get it too tight.
Good luck with your project. Bill
There should not be any stud inside the muffler. You should remove what ever that is. The pipe should not be notched.
If he removes it the muffler will fall apart, sooner!
Looking at the Lang's Catalog on page 91 of the 2010 -2011 parts book. It shows a :Shell Kit only 3 piece set. There is a bolt to hold the shell kit and the two cast iron ends together. If you remove the nut on the bolt it will allow the muffler to separate. At the inlet side that is a dry fit, or you could use the muffler paste but that would make a more rigid fit.
Just my 25cents worth from my '17 and my '19 "T'"s
Thanks, everybody. I looked again inside the cast iron end's inlet snout and decided there wasn't really the bolt/tube that I had remembered from before the onset of winter. That project and a few others were put "on hold" until the weather warmed up and I could lie on the cold, cold garage floor again to complete the work. I had remembered there being that stud inside, but it now appears to be part of the inner muffler guts = not the problem I thought. 'Sorry for the false alarm.
I measured and trimmed the end of the tailpipe to fit inside the muffler snot once the muffler was placed between the two mounting bolts in the frame. (Why are those two bolts so darned long anyway?) A little extra grinding on the end of the cutdown pipe and I think things fit together well. I just don't see how a sloppy fit like that will make a good seal and reduce the exhaust noise. We'll see, though.