26-27 assembly questions

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: 26-27 assembly questions
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Katy, Texas on Sunday, May 26, 2013 - 01:09 am:

When assembling the fenders, splash aprons and running boards to a 26-27 improved car, which assembly order should be followed as far as these parts are concerned? Right now, the body of my grandfather's coupe is bolted to the chassis and the next step is to install all these other parts which are painted. Do the splash aprons go under the body blocks or on top of them? From the hard cover Ford Service Manual, I can only assume they go under since it says they are to be attached with a wood screw. Also, I need to remove the windshield frame, which is the interlocking type hinge as opposed to the piano hinge. After removing the swing arms, can the windshield be removed by tapping on either side with a rubber mallet and sliding it out, or are there other things I must do?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Carnegie on Sunday, May 26, 2013 - 02:42 am:

I don't think it much matters what order you do them. I did: Front fender, splash apron, running board, rear fender - in that order on the last one I did. The splash aprons go under the wood. The windshield is sort of like yin and yang. Just open it up and slide it apart.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Skip Anderson on Sunday, May 26, 2013 - 11:48 am:

Body blocks fit in the cross member channels and body channels. There is no way that the splash aprons fit on top of the blocks. The blocks on mine have wood screws that hold them to the channel. When mine was disassembled, there was a material type washer between the body bracket, splash apron and wood blocks. Anti-vibration is my only guess. My 26 and 27 coupe each have the piano hinge style that was screwed to the top frame, and I have not seen another style. I did splash apron first, running boards second, front fenders third, and rear fenders last. Radiator has to be removed and body jacked up with bolts removed. Leave bolts loose for final adjustment and alignment. Good luck and be patient.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Sunday, May 26, 2013 - 12:38 pm:

This drawing will give the order off installation on the front. The fender is first.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell on Sunday, May 26, 2013 - 08:35 pm:

If you purchased new hood shelf blocks, they are a little thick. I had one original block that was in good shape. I measured it (sorry I don't remember the dimension) and planed the new block down to match. Also putting a wedge of some sort (I used scrap wood) to push up the radiator stud helps a great deal on radiator installation.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Murray - Anacortes, WA on Monday, May 27, 2013 - 09:26 pm:

TT

Hi Terry, Like Tom...front fender first, then work your way back...I screwed the splash aprons into the bottom of the wood blocks. I have the piano hinge type front window.

Like John...the hood shelf blocks don't fit well...so like most restoration projects the motto is "Make S@#T fit" !!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Smith on Monday, May 27, 2013 - 09:48 pm:

Terry, I have a 25 Tudor and not a piano hinge for the windshield. You need to unbolt the hinge from the header so you can remove the frame and hinge together.

Note there is a bead on the windshield in which the hinge will slide over. Pictures attached.
frame & hinge

Hinge that mounts to header.
hinge


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Katy, Texas on Monday, May 27, 2013 - 11:18 pm:

So now, I am confused. With the interlocking type windshield hinge, can I just disconnect the swing arms and tap one side of the frame with a rubber mallet and slide it out; or do I have to remove the upholstery and header cover panel and unbolt the upper part of the hinge?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Katy, Texas on Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 08:09 pm:

I am still confused as to the advice that I got on removing the windshield frame. I need to do it in the next day or two and need to know the easiest (proper) way. I already have the header panel and upholstery in the car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 03:35 am:

My '26 Coupe is like the photos above.
I don't think the hinge will slide apart in-situ; too stiff.
I unbolted the fixed part of the hinge from the header above.
BUT, I had to also remove at least one of the steel finishers from the insides of the A post. The hinge is too long to just exit forwards; it has to be moved down at one end, and the finisher is in the way.
But the whole screen and both parts of the hinge come out together.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Katy, Texas on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 09:25 am:

Thanks, Chris, That explains it a lot better.


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