Last week I had my roadster engine upside down, and painted the pan. Today I masked and painted the top side. I may have this car back together in a few weeks.
Yesterday I put my body back together.
Nice work Steve and Andre. It's always fun to see what folks are doing. This weekend I upholstered my Coupe seats. Not as nice or correct as a kit but less expensive.
Looks good guys!
Got my frame primed and painted. Rear end and engine work is next.
I've been working on a trailer hitch for my 1926 TuDor. This is mainly for my cargo carrier. I had a set up that worked off the spare tire carrier, but this one is a little lower, smaller and closer in. Which will put less strain on the car.
This is one of the first models
This is nearly finished.
Here is the cargo carrier and the spare tire. I decided to mount the spare horizontal rather than vertical. The spare is easy to get out, pull a pin and the it will pivot down, undo two wheel nuts and the tire can be removed. The entire spare tire carrier can be removed by pulling three pins. Seems to work and I like it.
I was less than delighted with my engine paint job.
Recently the formula for Rustoleum satin finish paint changed, or I got a bad batch. Compared to the head, which I painted last year, the new paint on the block is glossy. Glossy is for smooth surfaces like body parts. For rough cast iron surfaces, it's all wrong.
So this morning I masked the engine again.
I gave it a coat of flat black.
I'd rather have a satin finish, but this is better than glossy and it will have to do.
Looks good, Steve. I like the cast blast look on the early engines too.
That looks great, but a word of warning. DON'T" start it , It will get all greasy and dirty. GRIN. Keep up your posts and fine pictures.
I wasn't having lot of luck finding a tapered front spring until Mike Vaughn came up with one that had the top two leaves missing. No problem. I just used the top leaves off a later spring and tapered the second one with a grinder. The top leaf doesn't show because it's hidden inside the frame cross member.
Instead of grease or graphite paint, I'm using UHDM tape between the leaves. It looks like one roll of tape (about $40) will be enough to do both front and back springs on a couple of cars.
I didn't find any tape exactly the right width, so I had to do a little cutting and fitting.
Assembly is pretty simple.
Ready to install. Next I need to make the pad.
Looking really good, let us know how that tape works out.
Jeff" Is the tape also known as Mylar tape?
I got the name wrong. Google UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight).
Here's this morning's project: making the pad and installing the spring.
I like the second painting of the motor. The flat looks so much better then the gloss.
Now that you made the pad for the springs what are you going to patch the tire with? (lol)
I enjoy your photo posts. I know it takes extra time to set up the shots when you could be getting work done but I find them very helpful. Thanks for taking the time.
I have been polishing the 27 Roadster. I believe it's in original paint with many touch ups but when carefully polished the black looks a foot deep !
I just started to reassemble my "New Challenge".
Recharging the magnets of a HCCT
Saturday I decided to replace the rear axle seal to compliment the one I did 2 weeks ago. That hub was already loose and came off easy. Not so with this one. Gear puller didn't work either. So after soaking and topping with a hammer, I put all beck together with the axle nut turned out two full turns and cotter pinned. Went for a ride down bumpy Venice Blvd. took a few turns this way and that. Got home and put gear puller on again, no go. In frustration took a 30 minute mumbling/coffee break. Went back tightened up the puller some more and gave the screw a few more raps. Puller popped off and the drum was loose and came off. WOW what a bear. Any way stripping drum for repaint and new seal is in and ready to go. Back on the road tomorrow.
George n L.A.
Set the upper half on a C-Cab and promptly found out that I don't have enough lift clearance to get the body off the jig-stand.
Welcome to the club, my first T project I designed a C-cab delivery body and built it on the frame, went to roll it out of the garage and found it was 2" to tall. Redesigned and removed 2 1/2 " and know it just fits if the door is pushed way up and there is a drop on the out side of the door(driveway.)
Stripped the drum
Painted the drum
Outer seal and bearing back together waiting for drum to dry.