Alternator Question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Alternator Question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Monday, June 03, 2013 - 06:34 pm:

This Alternator came from MACs with no wiring diagram included.

It is different from the previous Mitsubishi Alternator with the little square regulator on the back.

Is that red jumper wire required or is any wire required in the other terminal?

Alt


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob McDonald-Federal Way, Wa. on Monday, June 03, 2013 - 06:49 pm:

James
I just put one on, it looks like the ones Becker makes. Just connect the wire that was used on the gen.on the battery post term.and that is all that is needed.It should work fine.

Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Garnet on Monday, June 03, 2013 - 07:15 pm:

Call the fools up and ask why they couldn't be bothered to include a wiring diagram. Personally, I wouldn't buy wet water from them.

Garnet


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, June 03, 2013 - 07:54 pm:

Wouldn't buy from whom? Becker?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob McDonald-Federal Way, Wa. on Monday, June 03, 2013 - 08:10 pm:

Ken

NO, From MAC'S, Beckers are great people to deal with Directly. With that post marked for Bat wire it is the diagram for mounting.

Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ex trooper on Monday, June 03, 2013 - 08:44 pm:

Those are 40 amp, self exciting, internal regulator Delcotron alternators. That unit requires one wire from that post to the battery (or hot post on terminal block). In effect, it turns itself on and off with engine speed. When I installed my 12 volt unit, I also installed a 40A fuse,a switch with a VOLTMETER in the line. It turns on at about 1000-1200 rpm(?) and typically runs at 13.4 VDC.
I bought mine direct from LD Becker & co. and I seem to recall it was $139 including shipping and the gear. WAYYYY better support than MACS. I also run his 12 VDC starter motor. troop


[IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/jv3doh.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/2ppc946.jpg[/IMG]

Everyone here will agree that a 12 volt system on a model T is a time bomb... so I complied LOL

[IMG]http://i44.tinypic.com/ao59o4.jpg[/IMG]

But you can beat having REAL lights all the way around either!

[IMG]http://i41.tinypic.com/f3uubq.jpg[/IMG]


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, June 03, 2013 - 09:15 pm:

It's not Mac's job to create instructions for parts. The manufacturer should have included directions, not Mac's. I don't get the reasoning for blaming a retailer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Monday, June 03, 2013 - 11:16 pm:

It's got all the directions it needs. See that tag that says battery post? Run a big wire from there right to........the battery post. Might be hard for some to understand.

The factory Ford generator wire is not supposed to be hooked up there. That alternator can put out around 42 amps, so be sure what ever wiring you use can handle that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 06:11 am:

only instructions needed: "install the generator Ford originally supplied..."


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 07:46 am:

I was just trying to get this information for a friend. It wasn't clear whether that little red jumper wire came with the alternator or not and whether this one always charges 20 amps or the Mitsubshi that he replaced always charged 20 amps.

I have an original type generator with a Fun Projects regulator and an original ammeter on my 1926, it does make a difference.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Wells on Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 12:29 pm:

If you install the Fun Projects regulator on the original generator, it will work as well as anything else while still being totally correct.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 10:28 pm:

There is something terribly wrong if the alternator always charges at 20 amps.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 06:35 am:

In an additional note from my friend he said that the real problem with the old alternator was a whining sound. The new one has the same whining sound. It must be something else causing the noise when the extra strain is put on it. when the alternator is removed the engine runs fine and is quiet. Any other suggestions?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 06:53 am:

James:

Check the generator mounting housing. If the alternator or generator has a new gear, the clearance between the new gear and the crank gear has to be adjusted with gaskets. I found that using two housing gaskets "cured" the gear noise I heard.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 06:58 am:

Just to clarify.....gaskets for the generator mounting housing that installs on the block, not where the generator installs on the housing.

Need another coffee to wake-up .


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Wednesday, June 05, 2013 - 08:10 am:

Sounds like a gear mesh problem.

Maybe the mounting pad for the generator is bent? Cam gear worn out?


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