This Alternator came from MACs with no wiring diagram included.
It is different from the previous Mitsubishi Alternator with the little square regulator on the back.
Is that red jumper wire required or is any wire required in the other terminal?
I just put one on, it looks like the ones Becker makes. Just connect the wire that was used on the gen.on the battery post term.and that is all that is needed.It should work fine.
Call the fools up and ask why they couldn't be bothered to include a wiring diagram. Personally, I wouldn't buy wet water from them.
Wouldn't buy from whom? Becker?
NO, From MAC'S, Beckers are great people to deal with Directly. With that post marked for Bat wire it is the diagram for mounting.
Those are 40 amp, self exciting, internal regulator Delcotron alternators. That unit requires one wire from that post to the battery (or hot post on terminal block). In effect, it turns itself on and off with engine speed. When I installed my 12 volt unit, I also installed a 40A fuse,a switch with a VOLTMETER in the line. It turns on at about 1000-1200 rpm(?) and typically runs at 13.4 VDC.
I bought mine direct from LD Becker & co. and I seem to recall it was $139 including shipping and the gear. WAYYYY better support than MACS. I also run his 12 VDC starter motor. troop
Everyone here will agree that a 12 volt system on a model T is a time bomb... so I complied LOL
But you can beat having REAL lights all the way around either!
It's not Mac's job to create instructions for parts. The manufacturer should have included directions, not Mac's. I don't get the reasoning for blaming a retailer.
It's got all the directions it needs. See that tag that says battery post? Run a big wire from there right to........the battery post. Might be hard for some to understand.
The factory Ford generator wire is not supposed to be hooked up there. That alternator can put out around 42 amps, so be sure what ever wiring you use can handle that.
only instructions needed: "install the generator Ford originally supplied..."
I was just trying to get this information for a friend. It wasn't clear whether that little red jumper wire came with the alternator or not and whether this one always charges 20 amps or the Mitsubshi that he replaced always charged 20 amps.
I have an original type generator with a Fun Projects regulator and an original ammeter on my 1926, it does make a difference.
If you install the Fun Projects regulator on the original generator, it will work as well as anything else while still being totally correct.
There is something terribly wrong if the alternator always charges at 20 amps.
In an additional note from my friend he said that the real problem with the old alternator was a whining sound. The new one has the same whining sound. It must be something else causing the noise when the extra strain is put on it. when the alternator is removed the engine runs fine and is quiet. Any other suggestions?
Check the generator mounting housing. If the alternator or generator has a new gear, the clearance between the new gear and the crank gear has to be adjusted with gaskets. I found that using two housing gaskets "cured" the gear noise I heard.
Just to clarify.....gaskets for the generator mounting housing that installs on the block, not where the generator installs on the housing.
Need another coffee to wake-up .
Sounds like a gear mesh problem.
Maybe the mounting pad for the generator is bent? Cam gear worn out?