Our brake light switch is the one that clamps on to the Bendix can. It failed when the phenolic ball that rides on the rod which is activated by the side action of the brake pedal cam slipped down the rod. It is only held on by friction and the parts are too small to pin together.
The ball slipped down the rod and it no longer pushes on the brass fingers to turn the light on.
My question is, is there another quality switch such as a Cole Hersey switch that can be mounted near the hogs head but NOT on the inspection cover ?
Thank you and a picture and part number would help. I know it was a topic last year but I can't find it.
Take a look at the one we make. It fits the bill and uses a high quality sealed switch.
I've used the Fun Projects switch kit and you couldn't make one better even if you had a load of parts laying around (like me). The bracket alone was worth the price of the kit.
I used John's switch and cured the problems . Love it.
George n L.A.
Yeah, I changed over from the starter-mount switch to John Regan's switch, too.
It's well engineered, strong and simple. It includes a very solid, powder-coated
mounting bracket and a switch with a rubber seal.
Mr Regan's switch is great, but since it's about Model T's we may look at a crude & cheap but working solution too: $7.50 28/29 Model A switch + coat hanger wire, pictures in a recent thread: http://www.mtfca.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=331880&post=524476
Will it work with the disc brake set up? The master cylinder mounts in the same place..
Hal, the disc brakes have a switch on the master cylinder, unless you are using something other than the Bill Tharp/TTP brakes.
Most of the disc brake setups use a switch that senses brake fluid pressure or if they do not already have it - check that out since it is a common way to do it that works pretty well. The switch usually mounts at the output of the master cylinder fluid connection and you can fit one up with some time at your NAPA parts store.
Oops - looks like a double post. - Rick posted the same info and we both posted at the exact same time.
I use a genuine Ford original. Never have a problem. Even the early repros were ok, but I hear the quality went downhill.
I have used the type which clamps on the starter bendix. One of them had the contact inside move and ground. fortunately I had a fuse in that circuit. The other one I had a problem with the clutch to low pedal link scraping the band and moving it out of alignment with the pedal so that it wouldn't work. I replaced that one with the Regan Funproducts switch and have had no problems since. The Regan switch is quality equipment.
I just installed the Fun Projects switch. I'm not an electrical type at all but was able to install this switch and run the wires without trauma. My car never had a stop light and I added one of these too. It all works!!!
Vintage Paul, glad of a victory over those pesky electrons
I have fitted two of John Regan's switches to two RHD cars and they perform perfectly. I cannot recommend them more highly to anyone who is looking for a fix for their problem. Quality part and exceptional support.
Rick, John..Thanks, I knew that, just wasn't thinking. (Sr. Moment)
I hear it's getting harder to find the spring for the RHD version.
The spring we supply is stainless steel and is a custom spring made for us to correct length and tension to reliably actuate the switch. For RHD you flip the bracket over so as to mount the switch on the right hand side. Contact us for a template that we will email you if you don't have it and simply drilling one small hole in the bracket allows you to move the pivot point for the actuator arm and then the spring will line up at the angle needed for the wider pedal stance on the RHD version. It isn't terribly difficult. The spring supplied is longer than needed even for LHD so as to allow you some leeway on spring length. After you have it adjusted and like it you then can cut off the excess spring length and just bend the end down. I confess the RHD mounting was not considered at first or the hole would have been in the mounting bracket to start with.
That switch in Bob Coiro's photo looks like a Detroit Diesel starter push button.
Methinks I have a NOS one around somewhere.
It was just my sad attempt at some humor John - apparently I'm no better as of late !!
The part arrived just moments ago, now to modify it because of my Layne Warford.
Which switch did you receive ? ... and any pictures of your installation ??
Bob, no pictures yet. The new Layne Warford has a horizontal webbing cast into the length of the case in order to strengthen it. So you have to cut a slot in the bracket provided in the kit to fit around the bracket. It would weaken the case if you trimmed the webbing rib off of the Warford case so you have to cut the bracket. The problem is that you have to cut it within an 1/8th of an inch to the edge and that weakens it. So you have to add material by welding a piece to the outside. I don't have a welder so am at the mercy of the local welder and the gas money to go there. If they made the bracket an inch wider it would cost ten cents more in materials and save me $15.00.
I will show pictures as I go later on today.
Bob, no pictures yet. The new Layne Warford has a horizontal webbing cast into the length of the case in order to strengthen it. So you have to cut a slot in the bracket provided in the kit to fit around the bracket. It would weaken the case if you trimmed the webbing rib off of the Warford case so you have to cut the bracket. The problem is that you have to cut it within a 1/4 th of an inch to the edge and that weakens it. So you have to add material by welding a piece to the outside. I don't have a welder so am at the mercy of the local welder and the gas money to go there. If they made the bracket an inch wider it would cost ten cents more in materials and save me $15.00.
I will show pictures as I go later on today.