What's the best way to fit the bearings to the camshaft?
the link will take you to our Tulsa web page, I wrote this up a couple of years ago and it may help you.
welcome to the forum
Is there a way to do it without the special line reamer tool? And what method is used to press the old rear out without damaging anything.
Travis, I haven't had to change the rear bearing myself yet, but there's access to both sides when the engine is torn down, so it should be possible to use a long enough bolt & nut with properly sized washers plus a piece of pipe on the rear side where the bushing can go into when pushed out by the nut & bolt screwed together. Many bushings are *much* easier to remove if it's possible to make a cut lengthwise in them with a hacksaw blade.
There is a "cheat" method to install bushings inline with an axle by fitting them to the axle first, then grinding down the outside to the busing so it fits in the engine with a minor play, then clean everything and glue the bushing in place with high temp resistant epoxi - the cam shaft in place should be straight and fitted in the front and center babbitt bearings. Be careful to avoid epoxi between the cam shaft and the bushing - some lube there instead
This method has been used successfully for spindle bushings and drive shaft tube bushings - anybody here used it for the rear camshaft bearing?
I've read on the forum about making rear cam shaft bushings out of worn out triple gear bushings.
Roger and Travis,
I have floated the third cam bearing using epoxy or J B Weld as you suggest. I've done it on about a half dozen engines. It is, as you say, the same technique used for spindle bearings and upper driveshaft bushings. Simply stated, you undercut the OD of the bushing and glue it in place using the cam shaft with the first two bearings installed to set the position. The regular type JB Weld holds up to engine heat with plenty of temp to spare. On the engines I've torn down where I've used the technique, everything looked good and solid. I've used the same technique for spindle and driveshaft bushings a bunch of times. I've never had cause to regret it.
Oh, yes, I've turned used triple gear bushings for third cam bearings too. The triple gear bushing material is superior to the new stuff.
Oh, another thing. I have a period tool for reaming the third cam bushing. Its a large bar with a 3/4" reamer on the end that just fits inside the two cam bushing holes in the block and reams the third bushing. It works well except for one thing. Most blocks have wear in the cam holes. Sometimes the resulting movement causes the reamer to open up more clearance in the third bushing than you'd want. I prefer the using J B Weld, personally.