I would like some feedback on this and the sediment bowl as well.
Happy motoring, Warren
Hardly ever on the carb and not as often as I should on the sediment bowl. With ethanol in our fuel, it is unlikely water will separate and settle out, so not much need to drain the carb bowl. The sediment bowl should be drained every so often to get out any particles that may have accumulated in it. Again, not likely to get any water out of it if you are running E-10, but there is always a chance there are rust particles or dirt or whatever that seems to show up that should be drained out occasionally. If you have the screen intact, none of this should ever find its way to the carb.
Thanks Hal, unfortunately here in New Hampshire we have 10% ethanol and no real gas can be found anywhere.
Happy motoring, Warren
We used to have one station that had nothing but non-ethanol fuel, all three grades. They were typically about 10 cent a gallon higher than other stations in town with E-10. I was willing to pay the extra because I felt I more than made up for it in additional gas mileage. A couple of months ago, they made one pump their non-ethanol pump and went to E-10 at the rest. The non ethanol is now only available in 87 octane. I used to get 93 octane non-ethanol in my wife's '67 Mustang which sits up a lot, but I guess that won't be happening anymore. Guess I'll be replacing fuel line and fuel pumps regularly now, as the rubber parts don't much care for ethanol. BTW, the 87 non-ethanol is anywhere from 60 to 80 cents a gallon more. Big change from 10 cent huh?
When in storage for more than 60 days, always shut off the fuel line, and drop the carb bowl, and let it completely drain dry. Hang a note on the shut off that the carb bowl is loose
Then add some Stabil to the gas tank. Or if old gas odors are present, add note to drain the tank out at the sediment bulb and refresh the gasoline again.
If you have the Grouse Jet needle, you have to do this or that ball bearing will stick open or close, and you get no gas or running gas leak from the NH
Best results is with the Ford style needle valve.
About once a month on average. So much humidity here on the Texas Gulf Coast my cars get wet sometimes with condensation inside the barn with the door closed so I know the humid air drawn into the gas tank will have some water present at some point.
I cheat and only drain the sediment bowl if there is gradoo in it. Its cheating because mine is glass and visual inspection is a snap.
While you have the bowl off, take the Grose jet out and throw it as far as you can, put in an original type needle and seat (the one Larry - semi original - Smith makes) and you won't have to worry about it leaking or sticking. Easy fix for about fifteen bucks.
As for fuel stabilizer, Stabil is great for non ethanol fuel. However Startron (blue) is specifically formulated for fuel that contains ethanol. http://mystarbrite.com/startron/ I think their claims for increased power and fuel efficiency sound too much like snake oil claims, but for storing fuel I've been using it in my motorcycles when parked for an extended time for years. I used in in my T last winter, (put in during last fill up then drove her home) and this spring, she fired right up, no draining of the bowl as the fuel stabilizer kept everything OK.
When I try a different carb. I try and run or drive my car 2 times or more a month. Keeps thing shook up!
I've been remiss and have gotten away with it. In three years, I've never drained the sediment sump and only drained the carburetor bowl that one time when I replaced the float and needle valve. So, far, so good and the engine runs fine as long as I keep the timer clean and oiled.
My carb bowl drain is wired shut for safety and that makes it too inconvenient to drain. But wouldn't it be nice if some engineer/manufacturer who happened to love the Model T decided to make an aircraft-type, spring-loaded, quick-drain that would fit our carburetors? Wouldn't a project like that be a lot of fun (hint, hint)?
When I got the my T it had been in storage for over 40 years. I rebuilt the carb and blew out the gas tank with air until no dust came out. Then I added a fuel filter and shutoff valve just before the carb.
I always shut the gas off at the carb when the car is not being used. But removed the filter when I felt that it was impeding the gas flow at higher speeds.
I drive my T a few miles every other weekend during the summer and only a few times during the winter and try to keep the gas tank full.
I leave the valve under the tank in the on position except when I drain the sediment bowl about twice a year.
I use Stabil in my generator, lawn tractor, snow blower, and anything with gas that I don't use often.
So far there have been no problems.
The T starts in the spring without a problem and the same goes for all the other things.
Like Erich, I have a tractor type strainer and glass sediment bowl replacing the original sediment bowl. Once a month I look under the car and observe the glass bowl.
No water could make it past the sediment bowl because of its construction (although I agree with Hal, if your running E10, water is unlikely anyways)