Driven plate problem

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Driven plate problem
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Sunday, June 09, 2013 - 08:22 pm:

As I have already mentioned in previous posts I have taken the engine out of my 26 coupe to replace the low gear drum and have found a few more problems. One of those is that the clutch fingers which are attached to the driven plate are very wobbly on their pins. They have actually worn the pressure ring pin holes oval. I need to tighten them up. The rivets are not loose in the driven plate. Has anybody ever repaired this problem before?

Thanks,
Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Sunday, June 09, 2013 - 08:25 pm:

I just finished welding two of them up. Getting them smooth and the holes realigned is kinda tough.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Sunday, June 09, 2013 - 09:11 pm:

Stephen, you might consider replacing the driven plate. They are very plentiful and inexpensive. You will have no trouble finding a better one if you advertise on the classifieds.
If you decide to replace the pins and weld up the holes, I believe valve stems are the same diameter as the pins, but someone correct me if I am wrong. If you have any old valves laying around, you can put them to good use. As Jack warned though, getting the welded holes aligned is not real easy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Sunday, June 09, 2013 - 09:37 pm:

Richard, I was thinking the same thing. I will be calling someone about other transmission parts tomorrow so, I will try to find another driven plate.

Thanks,
Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Sunday, June 09, 2013 - 09:45 pm:

I just thought about something else. The shaft of the driven plate I have now has been turned down .010 and I have a .010 oversize fourth main. Obviously I will have to buy another ball cap. Has the quality of the ones offered by the suppliers improved? I have read before that there were issues with the bearing being off center.

Thanks,
Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andy Loso St Joseph, MN on Sunday, June 09, 2013 - 10:07 pm:

Stephen, get a new-used driven plate and have the fourth main poured and machined to fit, problem solved.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Monday, June 10, 2013 - 06:42 am:

If you're lucky the new-used driven plate cleans up at less than .010 undersize - then all you need is remachining your babbitt :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Miller, Mostly in Dearborn on Monday, June 10, 2013 - 07:07 am:

Stephen mentions his car is a '26 coupe. I had a heck of a time finding a new driving plate for my car. The 26-27 plate is unique and harder to come by.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Monday, June 10, 2013 - 07:40 am:

If you have a lathe and finds a great pre 26 driving plate, I think it might work to take off some from the outer edge so it fits into the larger brake drum? The difference in the hole placements isn't very much.

One thing to remember is to always end the clutch pack with a larger disc, otherwise the engine torque is transferred via the holes in the driving plate through the pressure plate pins - the holes will be oval and eventually the pressure plate pins will miss the adjustment screws..


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Monday, June 10, 2013 - 04:48 pm:

FYI: I have been finding a lot of driven plates that are cracked around the rivets that hold the shaft on. Check this area. Dan


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