I have never used this make of band and before I mount a Kevlar lining on it I thought I'd get some input here first. The nibs on the band that clip the removable ear end still look pretty sharp.
I just played hell with trying to get a slotted removable ear band into and out of a aluminum hogshead and came to the conclusion after much cussing that the aluminum hogshead is to small inside to get the slotted removable bands on without removing the hogshead. Has anyone else been able to get these removable ear slotted bands into an aluminum hogshead through the inspection cover?
Jay, I'm not an expert but during one of our tours I needed to change low band and decided to do all of them. I had to raise the hogs head about 3/4 to 1 inch to get them out and on. Probably should have taken it off but I was in the parking lot of the motel and wanted to get through for the icecream the club was serving. Dick C.
Jay: I have had problems with getting the band back in with that GM Co. band I had to get the ford original in order to get things back together. the GM brand seems to thick. just my 2 cents worth. ED Henline
the lower one with the two long slots works well but be sure to dress the slots and pegs so that they go together and come apart with only one hand because that is what you will have to work with when clipping them on over the drums. The first time I used those I had to pull the band back out and dress the slots with a jeweler's file. The issue is that the two parts may not have come together as a set so are worn differently because they are not a mated pair.
If you are using wood linings and are not taking off the hogs head, be sure to drill the small hole in the end of the metal band all the way through the wood so you can catch it with a fine wire hook. Don't ask me how I know these things ;~)
The one with the G.M. would be for a General Motors transmission and it might work although I would rather use a Ford part.
My cars are RHD but I can use both types in an aluminium hogshead. Though there could be a difference in the space inside.
Its easier to fit the slotted type if you bevel off the end of the piece that fits the slot. That way once you have both bits in the slots they can slid up to lock easier
Jay here's my experience with GM bands. I removed the alum hogshead and installed GM bands with new lining. Originally the nondemountable type was in there. After I installed the hogshead, I noticed the 4th main didn't line up. It was because one or more of the bands was hitting something, probably the low speed plug, and causing the transmission shaft to bend a bit. I removed the GM bands and reinstalled the old ones with new linings and everything was fine. It took me a while to figure out what the hell was happening. I think I still have the GM bands.
Jay: After the recent Show Me Tour and the complete failure of the low band, I decided to change all bands on my 14 when I got home. Pulled them all out and found they were the slotted type. Installed Kevlar and tried to replace. Everything was OK until I tried to slide the slotted removal ear down on the left side. It would not go due to the raised portion hitting the inside bolt head that holds on the pedal piece. Took it out and replaced with the "double pin type" as shown on your post. It is thinner and slipped right in place. I tried grinding down the slotted piece to make it thinner, and then just decided to go with the other. My "double pinned" is stamped Ford and not GM, but it appears the same. No more slotted on aluminum hogs heads even though the low and reverse did fit when put back in.
FWIW, I know lot's say no problem with using demount lugged bands in an aluminum hogshead with a 'through the door' change. Sure wish they would produce a slow moving video or offer to show where they took a Dremel to the aluminum and forget to mention
I kept getting sucked in because if others can do it, why not me? Yeah, fat chance and each time after about 4 hours of f**ting around, I just pulled the hogshead and finished!
There is a unique 'twist here/pull there' that those who report success must use! Yet no one seems to ever come up with the exact 'twist here, pull there' instructions.
After more than a few different attempts on aluminum hogsheads at different times over the years that all ended in failure, I just gave up mentally! Last one done last summer, just pulled the hogshead immediately, even though what I put back in was detach eared...let the next guy figure out what that means! One thing that helps with this approach? I think I got the whole thing done quicker and set a new personal record than what it normally takes on a later real 'thru the door'.
I'm embarrassed to say it, but when I did Edison's '22 last year, after 4 hours on the 'thru the door' I was frazzled because it was always close but no cigar, always just 'that' close. Same metal band, same location etc. on this one. They came out, but wouldn't go back in and they were rounder going in than before they came out! I went to take a breather and was thinking of pulling the hogshead because some boss somewhere just had to be 'full', and when I came back in I heard Bob Jablonski call out 'got it!' So I walk up and give him one of those 'And?' and he just shrugged! "I don't know...maybe because you were jiggling by laying in the passenger door and I had to hang upside down from the drivers side and curl around the steering column?" He was not making a joke...he admitted he just jiggled a bunch of times and finally that last stubborn one dropped in...when things get 'that' close, I do think you're chasing a ghost of only a few thou., and it is that just right amount of 'twist here, tug there jiggle'. Some days you bite the bear, some days the bear bites you back!
No one has mentioned if they have made the necessary alterations to the early hoghead to allow the detachable bands to be installed. If the hogshead was made for just normal bands its nearly impossible to get the band in.
In LHD the low speed shaft (for RHD its the reverse and brake that need to be altered) it has to be cut off about 1" from the notch which holds the band end. A Later adjusting screw with the built in shaft end not the hollow end for the old shaft is also recommended so the other end of the band can locate properly With out the shaft across the drum its now possible to feed the band in over the drum and around.
See previous post about my 14, and this to follow: My aluminum hogshead is un-modified. After disconnecting all linkages and pulling pedals as far as they would go (also note, my 14 has starter courtesy of the previous owner), I put all bands in by inserting at the brake band location (rear). Got them all in place (I thought) and hooked up brake and low to the shafts. Could not get reverse to fit--right ear would not come up far enough out of the right side. Finally figured the low must have been cocked and holding the reverse from fitting. So, out came all bands, then went in one at a time with reverse being fitted first its shaft, then low, then brake. Will say that I used the "puller" on each band to bring it around the brake drum. Hope this helps
Tim, how did the previous owner fit a starter on your '14 and kept the aluminum hogshead?
Roger: I guess, I mis-spoke about the hogshead being aluminum, since it does have the starter hole. I am used to early brass having aluminum hogsheads. What I should have said is that I am still going through the standard inspection hole to put in the bands. The bands and hogshead are the narrow, not the wider brake as in 26 and 27. Without being at shop and looking at my stock 15 and comparing with the starter equipped 14, I do not know if the placement of holes, shafts, etc are the same in starter and non starter earlier hogsheads. All I know is that is just go in through the regular 6 bolt cover and put in the bands. I apologize for my error.
Tim, the removable ears should be on the left (pedal) side according to the Ford Instructions.
I've experienced problems using demountable ear bands thru the inspection access on 1925 and earlier trans covers. Seems there is more vertical clearance on the improved 26-27 cover.
On the '22 that George mentions, getting low band to clear the cast-in shaft support was a real challenge. Had the same problem on a '25 Coupe.
As one says " Ypur mileage may vary "
It is sacrilegious to put anything with GM on it in a Ford.
If the GM bands nearly fit a Ford trans, how different were the two trans.
Jay will know that after he installs that GM band, as it is about 3/8th inch longer than the Ford band and was designed for an early slush-o-matic GM transmission that kind of copied the Ford designs, but didn't require manual controls.
He will run out of adjustment threads before the band operates properly.
Peter: Yes, I installed the removable ears on the left side. The right ear I was referring to in the previous post was the non-removable one on the reverse drum. I finally removed all the bands and started each one on the brake drum, attaching the ear and then moving each band assembly to its proper location---reverse, then low, then brake. It was the slotted brake detachable ear that would not go back in its proper position due to the inside bolt, so I used the button type band, and it went in fine.