Installing the doors on a 26 coupe and both seem to have the same problem. They almost close and then bind. I put some wax on the "A" post and the contact appears to be at the upper two hinges.
I also found where the center hinges attached to the body were contacting the doors. grinding the hinges improved the situation, but didn't solve the problem.
I searched the site and only found one mention of a solution that involved a 2x4 placed in the lower hinge and pressure applied to the top. I am hesitant to try this.
Has anyone else experienced/fixed a similar problem.
Bump. I know we have quite a few improved coupe owners who may be able to help Mark out
If you ever have the chance to see a final assembly plant for cars, you'll see some crude and fast methods for adjusting the doors
(This guy knew he was being filmed, so it's likely he restrained himself )
Apparently the hinges need some bending - you can take them off, bend them in the vice, remount to see if it was enough - or do it much faster with the 2"x4"
Don't grind on a hinge to align a door. That's like replacing a headlight because the rear bumper is dented. It's not going to solve the problem.
Start by making sure the hinges are straight. Don't attempt to straighten them while mounted to the body or door.
Contact at the hinge side can be caused by two things. Either the A-pillar hinge mount area is bent or the hinge area of the door is bent.
Also, shimmying the body along the frame in front of and behind the door will affect the door fit. You wouldn't think a steel-enclosed doorway would flex enough to change alignment, but it does. Experiment by adding or subtracting shims in those locations on each side.
And as Roger and Ken recommend, also make sure the hinges are straight. It's unlikely, though, that both sides's hinges are bent. One, yes; but all six? That's why I'm leaning towards shimmying the body, too.
Marshall is right, when the doors need adjustment, the body mounting bolts most likely need shimming up, or down, between body and frame. My boy has built street Rods, and antique cars for 22 years, and that is how he showed me to do it.
Just one washer can make a BIG difference in the center body bolt.
When you start adding bending hinges in the mix, you better know what you are doing.
Yes, forgot about adding the need for body shimming - when T frames sag it's often at the rear motor mount area, so if body shimming is needed it might be at the front of the body? The fit of the hood may reveal something..
I saw this coupe and the hinges are bound before the door is closed. The hinges try to twist the post while the door is still open at least 4 inches.There isn't a problem with alignment yet as the door isn't closed.
I shimmed the body until the passenger door was better aligned. This also helped the driver door and with a little persuasion (dowel in the hinges) it closes OK.
The passenger side is another story. See that it had some previous repaired damage. I am trying to adjust the hinges bending with heat (off the car)Maybe if I get it close the dowel trick will work here also. Also see where I intend to grind the hinge. I'll grind it back to the black mark so it wound bind with the hinge cover on the door.
You can bet the next car I'll paint AFTER fitting the doors!
Thanks Guys and I'd appreciate any further advice.
Got it! Never should have tried to heat and move that hinge. I had it once and then decided to try and "tweak" just a little more. It went south from there for awhile, but finally got back to square one and it turned out just a little better. Whew. Onto the top.
Well done Mark...I hope that the rest is smooth sailing. I know you have a happy deadline !!!! W
Thanks Wayne, Floor boards and top then everything is gravy from there.