Got the new air compressor up and running, got the sand blaster cabinet operational and now I am ready to prime small parts.
Would you please tell me the steps to take: go to automotive store, get paint primer - any particular thing I should know, like it does not need hardener like paint...... I should lightly sand and re-prime or is one time good enough. What about a thick primer to cover scratches and minor dents etc.....
Thank you in advance, bob
A primer surfacer will smooth out and pretty up the surface after it drys and you wet sand it. The dents will stay until you fill them or knock them out.
Your going to need an etch primer first, spray the metal part - this is an acid etch and will let the primer stick.
Do any body work aka bondo...
IF YOU WANT TO FILL PITS ETC. THEN:
Spray a filler primer / surfacer to smooth out scratches fill pits etc. I use euro fill, the rattle can euro will clog sand paper bad but the 2 part will not, I like to spray it on to the point it is starting to puddle and run, use guide coat rattle can to help show dents when you sand, then I let dry a day and sand almost all of it off with a block and dry sanding 220 to the point the filler primer is breaking through to metal... That's how you know you got it sanded down enough.
If this is metal body stuff I will then spray a light coat of euro fill again, guide coat it, let sit in sun if you can a day to help dry and shrink it, then sand dry with 400 to finish off.
Then seal the primer light wet coat with a sealer let dry for an hour and paint. Any more then an 1/2 day of dry time and you will need to sand it.
Ps if it is just parts like door hinges etc, I will stand the euro fill with 220 electric orbital sander the first time, then sand sand the 2nd with 400 with no pad just hand in paper.
Also if the acid etch or any primer sits longer then 8 hours with out top coating then you must sand before top coating or the top will not likely stick.
I'm sorry, I meant the dents in hard services like the frame or small parts. I was hoping the primer would fill small 'pot' holes. If not, that is ok. It's 101 years old. It has character!
The body and fenders will be sub'd out to a professional.
thanks Travis, I sent my message above before I realized you sent yours. I appreciate the response and detail! Bob
Be sure to stay with a single paint compatible system of primer, paint and solvents. Don't mix systems such as acrylic, lacquer and urethane or mix brands.
Most of today's automotive paints are urethane components and require an activator. This includes the primer such as 2K or epoxy. Acrylics don't necessarily need an activator (hardener) but they will take longer to fully cure without it--Sometimes up to a year depending on number of coats. Some paints and primers will also need a reducer (thinner) while some activators are mixed with a reducer. In either case, the reducers are spray-temperature dependent and come in low, medium and high temperature. The reducer controls how fast the paint will flash or "dry".
It may be best to talk to a rep at your automotive paint supplier. They should provide you with the necessary components. And prepare yourself for sticker shock.
When you are at the paint store, make sure you talk to the guy who knows what you want, or you may end up with as Ken suggests incompatible paints... yuck finish ...
The counter person may just be that, someone who gives you the can and takes the money.
BACK AND FORTH NOT TO HEAVY and you'll be good.
If you decide to use an enamel, you can bake it dry in your oven so you can keep moving forward with your rebuild. ... not to hot and not to long, most parts 200F-250F for half an hour is plenty.
Don't forget the safety aspect of spray painting too, wear a "dust and vapor" mask-disposables are fine.