After looking at the photos in several parts catalogs. I still don't understand what the difference in the fins is that distinguishes a high fin from a low fin brass radiator cap. The fins look the same size to me. Does anyone have a side by side comparison photo? Maybe the repros in the photos aren't accurate when compared to originals?
The difference appears to be the shape of the dome and the number of threads each one has. I would assume that would determine how high or low it sits in the radiator neck
Kim Dobbins and others posted pictures of an interesting variety of 1909-12 cast radiator caps in this thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/205060.html?1303179310
What I am questioning is the difference between the 09-12 and 13-16 brass caps. Is is my understanding that the 09-12 (high fin) were cast and the 13-16 (low fin) were stamped. I believe all the repros are cast. I still don't understand the terminology -the fins look similar in size and shape.
I recently had my late 13 at the AACA meet in Carlisle, and was advised I received a maximum deduction for non-authentic radiator cap. I'm not sure if it is because of the shape or because it is cast, or both.
I'm seriously curious. If you don't get the award you're looking for, and you ask, the AACA will tell you what they took points off for. They won't tell you how many. And if you get the award you're looking for, they won't tell you anything (like how to make your car even better for the next higher award).
Your car got a First Junior, which is the award you were seeking. How did you learn you'd lost points for the radiator cap, let alone how many points?
I was at that meet (my '12 Buick got a Senior) and really liked your car. Congratulations on the first place!
Gil Fitzhugh, Morristown, NJ
Actually, I was told by several people, both prior to going to the meet, and while there, that if you write the VP of Class Judging and send a stamped self addressed envelope, and state that you are planning on continuing for further award he will send you a copy of the judging sheet with areas you lost points indicated. Not how many, but that you lost points in that area. According to the judging booklet, "Items of major deduction on a vehicle will be discussed with the owner by the Team Captain" . I guess maximum deduction and major deduction are synonymous,
Charles, I believe you are right about the cast and pressed radiator caps. My 1912 has the cast cap. the fins on it are both higher and thinner than the first pressed caps used on the later brass cars. The point of confusion may come when the fins on the later pressed caps were made higher than the earlier pressed caps. Jerry's lower sketch shows what I believe to be the later pressed cap profile. The earlier pressed cap, while not as flat across the top as his sketch,is quite lower.
The cast caps I have have thinner, high fins and the fin profile is a little more pointed.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I believe the cap posted above by Charles is a later cap that someone has buffed the nickel off.
The cap in my photo is cast. I was under the impression that original "low fin" caps were pressed.
But I'm not sure if my cap is considered high or low or neither!
That is the crux of my original question! Or put another way: does high and low refer to the fins or the dome of the cap? Or what?
Two more views of what was deemed a "non authentic radiator cap"
True, the original 09-12 high fin caps were cast and the original 1913-1927 low fin caps were stamped. No idea about repros, never seen one.
Charles, In my experience I would agree that the cast cap shown in your photos is a reproduction. i have two originals and they differ in that the domed section of the cap runs right out to the thread diameter. Yours is necked in. Accordingly, the fins on mine are a little wider to come out to the edge of the cap.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Thanks to all who commented. I guess I need to be on the lookout for a really good original to replace the "non authentic" repro before the Hershey meet.