So I made a stupid mistake. I put the engine pan back on the block with gasket Sunday. It was only after then that I realized I should have put the brackets and inspection plate back on BEFORE putting the pan on. I know the inspection plate is built to go on and off with the engine whole. How do I put the plate back on? I can't get the brackets to stay close enough to the pan to get the screws through the plate to screw in (the engine is still upside down sitting on the block).
Tie it in place through the holes with dental floss then put the screws in.
I don't think I took a picture of this, so I'll have to describe it. Use studs. You can cut the heads off four bolts (two per bracket) to make them. Drill holes through them for a short piece of welding rod or stiff wire. Put a bracket inside the pan. Screw two studs with pins (rod/wire) through them into two bracket holes until the bracket is in place where the screws can reach it. This works best if the two studs are centered between the front and back ends of the bracket. Do the same with the other bracket. You now have the brackets in place and the pins should be turned so they stick out from behind the plate when you put it on. Apply goo and gasket to the plate and slip it on over the studs. Install all the other screws enough to start them in the brackets, but leave them loose. Pull out the pins and remove the studs. Put in the four remaining screws and tighten all around.
I used to carefully thread in a front, rear and 4 side bolts with out applying any pressure so that the "horse shoes" didn't move out of alignment.
After a few times of this....I welded mine in next time I had the motor apart. best thing I ever did.
I won't own a T that doesn't have this.
I always hated the way Ford did that. I know it was most likely for ease and efficiency of production, but still.....
Use a one piece pan. I never have any trouble with that on my 1910.
I use some all thread cut into studs. Thread two studs into each "horseshoe".
Place the horseshoe in place as shown.
Next I cement the gasket and slide the cover to place. You can hold onto one bolt while placing a nut on the other. Once you have two nuts on you no longer have to hold the pan. You insert the bolts in the open holes. Then you remove the studs and place bolts in their stead.
It is actually easier than it looks... and it doesn't look at all difficult!
Terry's pictures show what I described, except his engine is right aside up and doesn't need pins through the studs.
I've never had a moments problem just setting the horse shoes and screwing in the bolts??
Do one on each side front and back then one on the end then the rest.
Works for me.
The problem that arises from welding the lower cover retainers into the bottom of the crankcase is that after many miles of driving and maybe "not as regular oil changes that should be done", the accumulation of NASTY CRUD - Babbitt pieces, cotter pins or remnants thereof, etc., that happens to reside right along the edges of the retainers is inevitable - the retainers really need to be readily removable to clean off the ledges of the crankcase properly.
Thanks for the responses guys. I wound up taking some rtv gasket goop and laid some on the bracket and "smooshed" it inside of the pan. I then put all the bolts through tight. When it dries tomorrow I will put the engine in upside right in my chassis, remove the bolts, place the plate on and rescrew the bolts in. Does this sound like it will work?
Sounds like it should work.
There are a lot of ways to skin a cat... or weld a horse shoe in place, or put studs in them, or glue them in place, or use a one piece pan. I have always used studs on my cars to line things up but I have learned a lot today! In my tool box there are some studs that have slots in them that I put there with a hack saw so that I can screw them in with a screw driver. I use gasket sealant to glue the gasket to the pan and do not glue the cover to the gasket. That way you can remove the cover to take up the bearings. Make sure that the cover is flat so that it will seal. McMaster sells washers with rubber gaskets bonded to them and if you use them the bolts won't leak. That is not original but if it your car is a driver it works. Show cars are a different thing. Just my .02