I am installing a replacement generator in place of my original that got lost in the mail on its' way to being rebuilt a couple of years ago and am ready to install the cutout. I have several cutouts in the parts box. The old style and the new electronic style which I purchased to use with my original generator after it was rebuilt and returned to me. It has been a long time since I purchased it and I forgot which of the cutouts is the old style and which is the new electronic style. On the bottom of one of the newer looking one is 3 pop rivets with black fiber washers and 2 slot headed screws with black fiber washers. Is this the new electronic cutout I should use? Jim Patrick
That sounds like the regulator.
Once you figure out which one is electronic, you can throw it away, modern electronics have no place on a Model T.
Just kidding! Actually, I am of no help on this topic (and many others), I don't have a generator on my T.
Thanks Ken. The one on the left is what I have. If it came with instructions I no longer them. It hooks up to the generator the same way as the cutout, right? Anything different I should do or be aware of when installing it? Do the 2 hold down screws on the generator to each side of the base do anything other than secure the cutout to the generator? If so, do I need to scrape off the paint to ensure a contact between the 2 tabs and the screws? Jim Patrick
http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/5055R6.PDF If this is what you have.
The two mounting screws do provide ground for the VR as well as for a standard cutout so at least the screw holes should be clean. A word of caution--Do NOT run a tap into the holes. The field coils sit directly behind the holes and could be damaged.
As for the instructions, John makes the very detailed instructions available online. Here's the link. http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/5055R6-052111.pdf
Dave and Doug beat me to the link. I had to go look it up.
My only concern is that you need to for sure have a good generator to mount this on. Unfortunately the term "rebuilt" seems generic but is the most phoney of all words one can apply to a generator as far as I am concerned. We are lucky that there are indeed a few good rebuilders in the T hobby doing generators but there are also a lot of people whose only generator rebuilding tool appears to be a can of black Rustoleum paint. When you install a VR to a questionable generator you can end up with a questionable Voltage Regulator. Unfortunately most folks only look to see if the generator will charge as being proof positive that the generator is OK.
John, is the generator considered OK if it consistently charges at 8 to 12 amps when first driving at speed with the lights off, or is there some other reliable home test we should be using to be sure?
If that is for the first few minutes after starting it is OK, but it should reduce to maybe 3 - 5 amps with the lights off once the battery is charged. With the lights on it should read just above zero at cruise.
Royce. I just took her for a drive to see what the ammeter would do while driving and after a couple of miles, it did exactly what you said. the needle dropped down and fluctuated between 3 and 4 amps and while driving with the lights on, the needle hovers around 1 amp. I am very happy with my new generator. The way folks are talking about the dubious nature of "rebuilt generators" and fly by night generator rebuilders in general, I think I lucked out and either got a genuine rebuilt one with a 3rd brush perfectly adjusted by someone who knew what they were doing, or a very good operational original with a new paint job. Not bad for $75.00 on ebay. Jim Patrick