Like your paint room.
Made an oil check rod.
Busy in the shop on your Birthday? And they say rust never sleeps!
BTW, nice oil checker!
Really minty parts Steve.
It always feels good to see progress! The past couple days, I have been fitting mismatched rod and main bearings. It has been very slow going. I think I am making progress. But I sure cannot see it.
I can hardly wait to see that you are driving your '15 runabout again! I enjoy your updates. Thank you.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Chore #1 was removing the flat top from modern screws, then stripping, prepping, and painting them for transmission cover screws.
I did six for the current project, six for the next one, and six for spares.
Job #2 was fixing boogered up threads on the new manifold studs and installing them.
Next was installing the front axle. This is where things slowed down.
One end of the spring was 1/2" higher than the other end.
I found that I had the pad a little thicker on one end. A little work with a grinder fixed that.
The spring turned out pretty good.
Steve, Looking at the side of your block where the manifolds go, you may have a problem with it sealing with the pits in the block. Two products that I have used to insure that it does seal are Thermo seal: that will take up 2400-2600 degrees of heat.
The other is: Versachem Mega Copper high temp silicone gasket maker, that will take up to 700 degrees. This product is available from Langs.
I've used the thermosteel on the block, but make sure you smooth it out to almost perfect, because once it hardens, you will have to file it to shape.
I've used the Mega Copper High Temp on the gasket, along with rings, and had no sealing problems.
Of course the best way to fix it is to have it machined, but this works and saves that expense.
Mike, Yes, I like it. Many thanks for the help.
Dan, I was wondering what to use on that. Thanks for the leads.
Is that pile of "extra" parts under the axle growing?
Another product I have used with good results is Lab Metal which is two part, and really sets up. Can be drilled, etc.
This being Sunday morning, today is really yesterday. Here's how I spent my Saturday.
The best pulley I had was a little loose on the shaft.
So I cut a .008" shim,
wired it on the shaft,
started the pulley on the shaft and removed the wire,
and drove on the pulley.
Next I drilled through the shim...
...and installed the pin. The other problem with this pulley, besides being loose, was two large holes instead of one large and one small, so I had to put cotters at both ends of the pin.
Next was installing a crank and ratchet.
The next chore was putting lovely nuts and bolts on the transmission cover.
I cheated and used stainless cotter pins. Don't tell the judges.
Last job of the day: petcocks in.
looks good. So, off for the entire day Sunday, or just this morning? Have a good day,
You are inspiring!
and he is retired!
Steve... take some metallic brown and thin it about 90% and then dab it on the pins with that 000 brush; unless the judges look at them with a UV light, they should pass muster. As always tho, distract them by pointing out something else. The worst ones are the ones with dentist mirrors and shirt pocket magnets checking stuff while youre chatting with their counterpart... ws
I built a pulley again Friday. The crank was turned about .020 thousandths on the pulley and seal area when it was still in the crank grinder, where I always use a modern seal.
I brass up the center of the pulley and anywhere else that needs it, and also around the two inside holes and make them about 3/4's filled.
The pulley hole is 1/2, to 3/4's bigger then the crank for a good tight fit.
When that is done, I put it on an expanding mandrill and cut a new crown, as they are normally wore out, and that makes the belt come off, or wonder back and forth.
If you have trouble with belts coming off, there is a pulley out of alignment, or the pulley crown's are shot.
When the pulley is done, I use a cold roll piece of shaft in the center only and if you use the outside of the pulley you can spring them.
When the pulley is on, I drill the pin hole starting with a small bit that fits the small hole which ever one that is, and then using every one from there until I end up with the 3/8's.
I use a roll pin in this area. To use one, I anneal the pin, and close it in the vice and close the gap, and saw through the pin slot, and I do this about 2 to 3 times, then the pin will not have to be used with a lot of force.
When I put the front cover on and align it, that is when I put the pulley on also.
Herm,that's one more reason I need to get a lathe.
I've heard of some people cutting out the center and welding in a piece of pipe, then boring it out to fit the shaft. I guess that would work too.
nice work Herm and Steve, My old sixteen inch lathe is Worn out but if I am careful it will still get me by.
As soon as this darn PC is working right a few of my own ideas and e mail with pictures can be posted.
Beautiful work Herm. I'm not that good with my bronze welding so I go a different route when re-building the centre of the small pulleys. I chuck them in the lathe and machine out the centre to match a piece of hollow bar steel. This is mig welded on the back of the pulley and the weld machined down when the new centre piece is bored to suit.
Allan from down under.
Yup, I couldn't get along with out a lathe, boy the things you can make. If I can run one, any body can.
very interesting stuff, thanks for sharing.