I have a friend in need of a Magneto Flywheel Gap Gauge, anyone have one for sale. Thanks!
You can buy it new from Lang's and Snyder's.
While you might get lucky I would not expect to pay much less then the cost of a new one maybe even more.
How is it better than an ordinary feeler gauge?
That gauge lets one set both the magnets and the coil pack perfectly flat. It really makes setting up the magneto easier. Not easy, just easier.
While my understanding of the gap gauge maybe a little fuzzy, once you use it to set the magnet heights using it, the head part is flipped. It is then mounted to the crank shaft and you then set the coil ring. I think the proper gap is built is built in or you use the thumb wheel to set the desired gap. You can set the magnets to coil ring gap using feeler gauges but this was designed to get the job done faster. I would love to try one, maybe someday!
Nowell — PM sent
Use brass feeler gauges--instead of steel--steel ones tend to stick to the magnetic surfaces--easy to misread. The Gap gauge setting device works well--good luck--Paul
I like Steve Thum's statement "Not easy, just easier".
I will add "Without the Magneto Flywheel Gap Gauge the job is nowhere near easy". The Gap Gauge is well worth the money. Without it you will need a hair transplant when done.
Setting the field ring after setting magnet height with the KRW gap gauge only works if the tool is calibrated AND the rear main bearing thrust surface was machined using the KRW procedure.
The magnet end contact tip of the KRW gap gauge is stainless steel.
Ron the Coilman
Told you I was fuzzy! LOL I knew someone would step up with the correct info. Thanks Ron.
What is the value of "H"?
The "H" measurement will likely be a little different from gauge to gauge but as long as "L" is correctly adjusted for the particular gauge, you should not have to worry about it.
It that fails, you should be able to measure "H" for the gauge you have, then set "L". Once "L" is set, you should not have to change it again.