Hello everybody .
I have this odometer I'm trying to get back to work .In rest position it indicates somewhere between
0 and 60 . When I turn the cable intake on the bottom clockwise the indicator turns to the right , indicating 55, 50 and so on down to zero . When I let go the indicator jumps back to maximum .
I don't really understand what is going on . The little mechanical stop on to of the indicator dial prevents movement in the other direction .The spring on top of the dial makes the dial return .
Since it is a magnetically supported movement I can't really think of any thing . Is the magnet polarity reversed ?
Thanks for any help or suggestion .
All I usually do on most speedometers is lift the tab enough to slip the O past it. It will then read 0. Sometimes you have to take the two screws out of the back and lift the tab up, ;but not too often.
Can you tell me how to remove the larger brass knob on the Stewart 100 at the left of the picture below? There is a screw that holds the "mileage" shaft that fell out into the case and I can't figure how to remove the knob.
The one on the left is the thinner speedometer. Also, can the case be removed without removing the reset shaft on the one on the right? Wanted to lube the back and the driven shaft at the bottom.
Ken in Texas
I tried that , but actually this does not change a thing . The dial goes around once more for a full circle and you get to the same position as before , either way it is tried . if I am not careful the spring gets twisted . this is definitely too far .the stop is at maximum speed . what could be wrong ?
The tab is on the wrong side of the stop. Also, the cable spins counter clockwise looking at the drive connection from the bottom. The dial "follows" the spin of the rotor.
Ken, I'll be watching for the response. I have the same problem. I think I can see the problem within the speedo but can't get it apart until i can get the knob off.
Allan from down under.
Ken, To remove the knob, you must take off the bezel and glass lens, remove the silver dial face and then remove the square shaft that holds the reset knob in place. This is a tricky procedure, as if you are not careful, you can break the pot metal odometer body, and the knob will no longer stay in place as you reassemble the unit. I hope this helps, Russ Furstnow
Luido, The speed drum has to rotate clockwise in order to operate properly. Loosen the three screws out of the speed cup bracket, found on the back of the main body. Then lift the bracket and allow the speed cup to move the right of the small tip that keeps the speed cup in place when the speed is zero. Tighten the three screws and you should be fine. I hope the helps, Russ Furstnow
Sometimes you have to take the top that holds the drum off and bend the tab down a little to stop the tab on the drum. If your spring gets twisted you are defiantly going past the horizontal tab. By the way your point that holds the face in place is broken off. I fix that by placing a sharp strand of JB Weld in its place. You must make the strand very thin so it will go into the hole in the face. It works for me every time. Make your strand the same shape and size as the original point.
Russ is correct. You must remove the bezel, glass face, speedometer face and remove the three screws in the back then the knob and the rest will come out. The knob just sits in a slot. At this time you may want to reset your odometer to what ever you think is correct for your car.
I misinterpreted the spring tension , assuming it was correct . Getting the dial stop under the tab was not enough and did not change anything to the situation .The dial made a full circle and came back where it was : maximum speed . Somebody must have worked on this item before me .
However I found that when the spring is set totally at rest with no tension , then tension can be adjusted both ways : to wind it and to unwind it . This can be adjusted by passing the dial stop under the tab carefully either way as suggested.
Now the dial works in the same direction as the shaft : counterclockwise . The dial indicates zero at no speed .And speed indication increases correctly the movement of the dial , but I had to pass the Monopoly "Go"
3 times with the dial before getting there .The spring was loaded the wrong way . See the difference in spring load in this and the original picture .
Dave , you are correct . One of the holding points of the screen is broken off . I have the little piece and will put it back with crazy glue .To tell you the whole story : I had to work on the brass ring with a rubber hammer for about 10 minutes to open the odometer .The first thing I did was to get off the excess black paint on the outside rim with sand paper . Now the pressure on the ring is reasonable .
The odometer needs a little shake to correct the speed indication back to zero sometimes, but I assume the car vibration will take care of that .
One question remains :too much or too little tension on the spring will influence the speed reading .Only a comparative road test or lab calibration with a strobe can tell .
thanks for your input .
I wish you were closer, I have an original stewart fixture that you can drop your speedometer head in a hole and check against a fixed head for accuracy. Be careful of changing the tension on the main spring. For years I changed the tension by removing the plug from the end of the spring. I broke a lot of main springs doing that. I then learned to turn the wedge on the other end of the main spring and have not broke a spring since. The wedge is the round item on top of the drum. You can turn it to any tension that you want.
You can also check the accuracy of your head by using a 3/8 drill. I used to check the accuracy of all my heads that I worked on with a hand drill. Its been a lot of years since I used the drill but I think you head should read 24 MPH. I may be wrong on the MPH as I have had my Stewart fixture for a lot of years and have not used a drill
Russ & Dave,
Yes, per your direction, I took the square shaft out, knob comes out and the speedometer can be removed from its case. The one like I pictured on the right just slides out.
I had a very close look at the top of the mechanism where the spring is . I can see the plug and have no intention to touch it .My experience with clock springs is very bad . Under the small brass cap I can indeed see a wedge holding the other end of the spring around the axle. It is not perfectly round and has a slot , probably to have tension on the axle . I suppose that is what you mean and it can be carefully moved around the axle for fine adjustment , holding it with a pair of fine pliers , while preventing the dial from turning . I will make drive tests and try to work on that . I will get there in the end . had no idea it was so delicate .
Thanks a lot for sharing your wisdom .