If I pull the hogs head, unbolt the motor and slide if forward can I change the clutch disks? Has anyone done it? It's a narrow brake drum 1921.
No. It's not that hard to pull the engine and do it right. The flywheel would hit the pan and you'd have to remove the radiator anyway. All the pan bolts and hog head bolts are easier to remove when the engine is on a stand. When you reassemble everything the engine will be less likely to have oil leaks.
I didn't intend on pulling the flywheel. I am asking can the drive plate be unbolted, pulled back far enough to clear the end of the transmission center shaft and removed to replace the clutch disk.
Tinkering Tips mentioned unbolting the rear end and pulling the drive shaft out, removing all the pan bolts except the front 2, and lifting the rear of the engine to raise the tranny. You can then remove the tranny off the engine with the engine still in the car, or remove the clutch disks or whatever. He states it is easier than removing the engine. I don't know.
I just went out and looked again with my "GOOD" glasses. While there should be room at the top of the pan, the slope at the bottom would be in the way. You would have to raise the engine as suggested in Tinkering Tips. Guess I will have to put my T driving on hold till I can barrow a cherry picker. No room to build or use a scaffold in the huckster anyway.
If you have good rafters in the garage, you can use a chain hoist and pull it right out. Much easier that way, and while it's out, you can check for other problems. Get the books "engine" and "transmission" Check and fix anything which is questionable and then when you get it done, you can seal up everything and have very little or no leakage. I can't even begin to imagine how hard it would be to remove and replace all those bolts and seal up every leak when you get done, if you try to do it in the car. You can also check the 4th main alignment and if needed align the crankcase so everything will work smoothly.
With such a big area as Portland, there must be someone in the local club who has an engine stand and a chain hoist which will make your job much easier. A week's work or a couple of weekends and you can get the engine out, the clutch disks replaced and the engine back in. Unless you find more work needed. Then it would take extra time to order parts and do machine work if needed.
I have the books and engine stand. My garage is a lean-to without much space so I don't have room to own and store my own cherry picker. The car is in the back yard with the front sitting on my part of the driveway so I can work on the cement, torn apart so can't be turned around, would have to roll it out in the street, up and down a sloped driveway to do so any way and no room to tow it. The cherry pickers I normally barrow are in use and don't have room to build a scaffold. The motor needs more work then burnt clutch disks but I am trying to band-aid for the rest of the tour season (with the lint in my pockets). I've
got a couple of weeks till the next tour, a Ruckstell to finish and roadster to do a check-up on But I'll get it done (exchanging some of that lint for green)
I've pulled a T motor without a cherry picker or come-along before by myself, I wont do that again!