Hopefully, this will be my last silly question in THIS series ....
While the radiator is out, I thought I should replace the bushing for the hand crank guide ... but .. I am not able to 'gracefully' remove the ratchet from the end of the hand crank. I have the ratchet pin out, and the ratchet is a bit sloppy on the end of the crank, and can rotate about 1/8th of a turn, but the ratchet doesn't want to just pull off the end. Is there something else holding it on? I really can't see into the inside cup area of the ratchet to see if there's a captive nut there, or something.
Without getting the ratchet and crank out, I won't be able to get the sleeve out. I'm sure getting the sleeve out will be 'fun' as well. :-)
Nothing else holding it on but years of use. It might possible have a "burr" and is preventing the ratchet from turning - just give the handle a few quick pulls like a dent puller and it should come off.
Very good .... I did .. but apparently, it's a pretty big 'dent'. :-)!
Good deal ... I didn't want to put excessive force and do something I shouldn't. I'll be a little less gentle now ...
Sometimes the pin hole beats out a bit and binds. Sometimes they bind a lot. I had one once that I was able to crank start the engine several times with the pin removed. It was not a pretty thing to watch, and took about an hour to get that stupid thing apart.
Just warning you.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
With the pin out, engage the crank and try to turn the motor over while pulling out on the crank. It may also help to have the trans in high gear. When it lets go. be prepared to land on your grass! ws
Hehe ... thanks for the tips!
I got a bit more aggressiving knowing there wasn't a 2nd 'keeper' of sorts, so with the pin out, I put the crank arm up, then whopped the base of the crank, down next to the shim and crank guide, witha 3lb maul a few times, and it came right off.
The shim wasn't TOO bad. I used a small round punch a few times around the edges, after using penetrating oil a few times and let it set. Once I saw it budge a little bit, then I used a deep socket that was the right diameter, to 'drift' it out.
Done deal now .. short of waiting for the new parts to come in!
Thanks to all!
Denis, don't expect a really good fit in the new bush. They are sloppy when new and if your handle is worn, it will be sloppier. I get a bit carried away making it a neat fit by welding a new piece of 3/4" shafting on the worn handle and fitting a bronze bush in the pan. The pan hole usually demands that the OD of the bronze bush needs to be turned down a bit where it sits in the snout. I love the feel of the neat fit of a well oiled crank.
Just call me strange.
allan from down under.
Good to know ... and it will very likely be the case on mine, as the shaft on the crank handle on mine is indeed worn a bit ... and a bit pitted. It would certainly feel a lot different than it does now, were the shaft and fitting actually be a good fit!
Some folks have found that the nose of the pan was a bit off and with a new tight fitting bushing the crank doesn't line up like it used to.
After the pin is out, just bang it against the bushing. A little WD-40 wouldn't hurt either.
Remember, everything connected with that hand crank wears one-sided or crooked. Any sort of repair must take that into account, so cut or add material accordingly. Simply drilling out the old (worn crooked) bushing will result in a hole that is crooked. A new bush put into a hole that has been drilled crooked will result in a crooked bushing.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2