My rivets are bending while trying to sink them into my Scandinavia bands. Can anyone give me good techniques for doing this without ruining the rivets?
Use a soft block of 2x4 as a base. The last set I did I used a half rotted cedar 2x4.
Keith
Matthew, when I fit the much tougher kevlar bands, I first punch a pair of slots for the rivet tangs using a small sharpened screwdriver blade. That way I can push the rivet through the material first and the bend the tangs over.
Hope this helps.
allan from down under.
Here is how Steve Coniff describes how to do it. I have very good luck installing them using this method. I use an old Model T Spoke instead of a 2 x 4.
Thanks guys: all of these methods seem like they will be effective.
The 2x4 block of wood is the way to go.
Whap that rivet with a ball pein hammer and it will cut thru the lining, with tangs just protruding.
Then spread the tangs just a bit more open with a flat blade screwdriver, then whack again with the ball pein and that will push and fold the tangs into the lining.
The last set of lining I installed, I lined up the lining, took an ice pick, punched a hole in the lining, turned it over, placed the head of the rivet on my anvil,took a screw driver, spread the points of the rivet, took a piece of round bar stock, laid it on the points and hit it with a hammer. The 2 rivets on the ends, I did the same, except I put a flat punch in the vice, centered the rivet, spread the points and hit the bar stock with a hammer, like the others,
Have had no problems
Position the ball of the ball pein hammer between the tangs and whack the ball pein hammer with another hammer. If you try to whack the tangs with the ball pein hammer, you are likely to miss the center between the tangs. You can also use a piece of 1/2" pipe to spread the tangs and curve them around into the lining. Jim Patrick
Jim, just a word of caution! It is not safe practice to hit one hammer with another. It can cause chips to fly and that is a threat to your eyes in particular.
Keep safe.
Allan from down under.
Jim, just a word of caution! It is not safe practice to hit one hammer with another. It can cause chips to fly and that is a threat to your eyes in particular.
Keep safe.
Allan from down under.END QUOTE
Allen, why didn't tell me that about 18 years ago?
you can always hit the metal hammer with a wood or rubber mallet. ones like you use to lay down hardwood floors sure pack a whollop!
Dan T's pics using a 2x4 with a screwdriver and ballpein hammer is the one most everyone used on and off the farm in the Model T's heyday. Its probably the most used overall. Simple works best.
Everyone please heed Allan's post. I still have a small piece of a hammerhead imbeded in my forehead just above my right eyebrow. That happened in about 1975. I didn't intend to strike the two hammers together as I did know better, but my aim was off a bit. Dave
Has anyone tried installing band linings using some type of adhesive? Was it successful ?
It would seem that if brakes linings are attached using adhesives, that it would work for band linings too.
Jus' wonderin.
After using the end grain of a 2x4 to get it started, I lay the round end of a quarter inch socket extension on top of rivet points and strike that with a hammer to spread them evenly. I finish it off with the ball end of the hammer.
I use the band lining rivet pliers found here http://www.modeltford.com/item/3422RST.aspx
I poke a hole in the lining using an awl, stick the rivet through the band and lining, grab the rivet with the rivet pliers, stick the plier "jaws" in a vise and tighten the vise until the rivet is set.
Pretty painless.
As mentioned by others, pre-forming two holes with an awl works very well to get the tines through the band. The nicest installations are accomplished using a press for tubular or split rivets. It results in deeply clinched rivets where the tangs are recurved back into the material...this avoids the stresses associated with a sharp bend and keeps the tangs deep in the friction material, away from the drums for years. Of course, I'm biased toward this method, as it's the one I use. A decent press can often be found reasonably at most large antique auto flea markets.