OK thanks for the help on my prior posts. I am trying to get the car ready for the 4th parade tomorrow. I sheared the Bendix gear. Using a replacement spare assembly, I can not line up the hole on the Bendix assembly to the starter shaft hole so I am trying to repair the broken assembly as shown in the picture - hoping it will fit. i ordered a new Bendix gear but can not find in the ford acquaintance black book on how to remove and replace the gear. Any help appreciated while I craw back under the car and try and dress down the replacement Bendix, hoping to get the holes to line up!
David, sorry I can't help with the Bendix quandry, but I wanted to know if you've ever been in "Dad's Toys"?
I was told by a customer in Mishawaka that it was a great store.
Good luck with the Bendix fix for the parade.
Found an answer searching the 2009 and 2011 forums below. This site is a wealth of info! Now if i can just follow the directions!
The sleeve on the end which runs in the whitemetal bush on the starter housing extension is indeed threaded on as Mike D says. If you look closely you will see that the thread has been staked to prevent it coming off in service, making it difficult to remove. I do it this way. Find two bullet head nails which are as thick as the two holes in the threaded sleeve and cut them off short near the head. These go in the holes and the sleeve is clamped in a vice. Replace the bendix bolt in the end of the assembly and use this as a stop for a large pipe wrench or even a crescent wrench. As you work the wrench, the nail heads prevent the sleeve from turning in the vice and the bendix bolt prevents the wrench slipping on the other end.
Hope this helps. By the way, I have found many original drives where the loose ring on yours has been bronze welded back into place and this has been entirely satisfactory.
Allan from down under.
If you look at the threaded on end there are two holes. After this piece is threaded on, the threaded part is staked from the inside into these two holes. To remove it, take a small punch, stick it into the holes and push out the metal that was staked into them. You will now be able to unscrew the end. When you reinstall it, take a small punch and deform the threaded part into these holes from the inside to keep it from
The other end is crimped on. To remove it place it in a vice and squeeze the two tangs together. That will deform the crimped part allowing you to remove it. The new one will have two small slots on each side. Slip it over the end of the bendix and use a screwdriver to punch the metal between the two slots into the groove in the bendix - crimping it to the shaft. When done it should spin freely.
The gear can be fixed. You can weld the counter weight back onto the gear, just make sure you don't weld where the little hole is. Or - just replace the gear.
Make sure you install the little spring loaded pin into the hole in the counterweight. This keeps the gear from bouncing back into the ring gear when it comes back. The pin should ride on the top of the thread and drop into the recess on the right side in your photo. Make sure it doesn't get hung up going in and out of the recess.
Or just put the Bendix cover back on and use the crank.
Weld the piece back on and go on. I do it all the time
First thanks to all. The problem on reinstalling the REPLACEMENT Bendix assembly I had was that the tail piece bearing (the part that slides into the engine block by the ring gear) was not completely screwed onto the shaft. This resulted in the inability to attach the Bendix spring retaining bolt. Taking one apart, and reassembling it with the original shaft and a replacement Bendix gear everything worked fine for the parade.
Glad to hear that.
Thanks to everyone for all the good advice.