Does anyone have photos handy for the hand crank assembly?
I have what I hope are enough parts to get my '24 Roadster radiator, fan, and hand crank back together. I'm looking for some photos that will help.
I got a new crank pulley pin, and cotter pin .. and in place.
I have the sleeve part way in, but don't know how far to drive it in ... drive it all the way 'home', so it is flush with the front of the drip pan nose?
I have a new crank sprocket, pin, and spring as well.. should there be a washer between the spring and engine side of the drip pan nose?
Mine didn't have a spring when I took it apart.
Now that I'm thinking about it ... seems more natural to me to have a spring be in place to pull the ratchet AWAY from the crank pulley .. not to keep tension on it so it stays in place. Otherwise the crank would be flying around ...
I must be missing something ...
I'll keep looking for photos.
See picture on page 11 of service manual,shows it all. No washer and yes,flush on the bushing.
I'm surprised the no one said anything, but do not install the spring like this one:
The crank busing should about even with the front of the motor mount and the spring fits in a hole near the bend.
Ahh ... thanks! Now I'm embarrassed .. went through that thing 3 times, and didn't see it. I thought I had remembered seeing a particular photo, and was looking for that.
So ... the spring goes OUTboard of the nose. That makes sense for how I was thinking it should work, anyway. I would have expected some sort of positive stop for the spring, like a shoulder on the crank.
That explains the photo on page 45, then. I didn't recognize what is apparently a spring going through the radiator cowling.
Your firs photo is indeed what I was envisioning! LOL, but didn't think it was right .. it would work opposite of what I expected.
I didn't notice a hole in the crank ... probably painted or cruded over. Now I have to run to the garage and check it out ... and see if the replacement spring has the hook. THAT give it the positive stop I was expecting in my previous post.
Yessirie.... there was certainly a painted over hole in the crank, and my replacement spring has a hook on one end of the spring to fit in there. I'll probably just need to drill it out a bit, to make sure there isn't a piece of broken off spring in there or something.
Just curious ... does the handle end of your crank have a grip that spins, or does the grip just spin in your hand when you crank? Mine has a bit of a groove where yours is, but the grip part is pretty much the same size as the rest of the crank.
It really doesn't make much difference to me, as I usually only have to pull a 1/4 rev to get it started now, anyway. Just a curiosity.
Yes the handle should rotate freely on the crank.
Here is a thread where one was made.
IMHO, I don't think that the spring is really needed. I've driven T's w/out the spring and never had a problem w/the crank trying to self-engage. The weight of the handle just seems to pull the crank back.
Very good. It LOOKED like it should, but thought it might have been just made to look like that. I guess I'm not alone! LOL
I don't know if it's my eyes or not, but it appears that crank with the X through it is bent!
If you ever drive up a steep hill you will understand why a spring is needed.
I need the spring on mine when I use the leather crank holder, otherwise it wants to reengage from the pull of the leather holder.
Dave is correct, a spring is required if you ever drive up a steep hill. When I first got my chassis running I did not have a spring. A short section of my driveway is about 15% and the crank would slip back and hit the crank pin. It makes a load noise when it contacts the crank pin.