For those of you whom may have experience in doing this. How difficult is it to replace the vinyl top on a 1922 doctor's coupe for a novice? Is this something I should tackle myself or leave it to the professional? Either way I would like a quality looking job when finished.
Thanks for any advice,
A novice can do it IF you take your time. I did mine several years ago. The interior headliner needs to go in first, then the padding and cheese cloth, finally the exterior top vinyl. I did add chicken wire under the vinyl to help stiffen the roof. Several vendors have roof kits available and if you do a "key word search" you will find helpful tips from past posters.
I put a top on my 24 touring, I put in about 32 hours in doing so. As Dennis said, take your time and as Norm says, measure twice and cut once.
Thank you for the advice. Apparently, no one else on the Forum has attempted replacing their top, which really surprise's me! I will certainly look into it more based on your advice. Thank you for taking the time,
Check out these threads from 2009 and 2010. I hope this helps you. A picture is worth a thousand words. Jim Patrick
There is a similar thread just a few notches down in this forum >>> http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/356138.html?1373512595
Once you get the wood in place, the headliner should you chose to have one (I didn't), the muslin down and tacked, then the wire followed by the pad.......lay out the vinyl over the pad and move the car into the sun. The hotter the better. PAY ATTENTION to the grain......if you get it crooked it'll look like crap.
You won't BELIEVE how much the vinyl will grow when it gets HOT......and it DOES get HOT so you will probably want some soft gloves or your hands are going to get VERY uncomfortable very quickly.
Start tacking front center and rear center stretching the top material for nearly all you're worth. I recommend 3 tacks about 2" apart starting at the front. Pull it TIGHT to the rear and put 3 tacks there. Now go to one side and do the same thing starting at the center, pulling and smoothing as you go, and then the other side. Work out from the sides, stretching and smoothing as you go....a little at a time in both direction along both sides.
It is TRULY a PIA job but if you want it to look good you're going to suffer for a little while.......but it's SO worth in the end when you are finished tacking and bounce your hand off of a nice smoooooooth tight top!
Did Ford make a doctor's coupe??
(sorry - couldn't resist)
I think the one chronic mistake that a newbie makes is when it comes time to stretch the top. At that point they are anxious to finish, and what seems tight enough...isn't come a few days later.
I don't use staples, I use upholsterer's tacks, long ones for the first fit and work from centerline out, but only seat the tacks half-way. Let it sit for a few days, roll out in the sun is even better, then come back and start again from the centerline out pulling one tack at a time and replacing it. Habit has me only sinking them half-way too on a just in case basis...and when good and snug send them all home and still only cut off the edges the next day.
Jim & Craig,
Many thanks to you both for the great information and previous threads! Yes, pictures are worth a thousand words.
I did not use the chicken wire and I like the finished product.
Make sure to overhang the front frame crossmember beyond the upper windshield frame an inch or so, so you can screw the sun visor to the under side of it. Here are five (5) pictures of an original, unrestored 1926 sunvisor. The first 3 pictures show how it was covered at the factory and the last 2 pictures show how it was attached to the underside wood of the overhanging front frame crossmember with (7) nickel plated oval headed wood screws in raised countersunk washers. Jim Patrick