Spring & perch bushings: remove and install

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Spring & perch bushings: remove and install
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 01:18 pm:

I was asked about this today, and thought I'd post it here again for those who may have missed it before.

The parts vendors sell a driver that fits into the bushings and you pound it with a hammer. I like this better.


On an eight inch piece of all thread you have a nut, a washer, a 2" piece of 3/8" pipe, a 2"piece of 3/4"pipe, a washer, and a nut. I think I used 7/16" all thread and had to drill out the 3/8" pipe to make it fit.


As you tighten the nuts the small pipe presses the old bushing out into the big pipe.


You can press in the new bushing without the pipes. Slather a little grease in the hole and be sure the oil hole in the bushing lines up with the one in the spring or perch.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 03:08 pm:

Steve - In a word,.....SLICK! I can see where that would be a lot easier to use than the "hammer method", and certainly a lot easier on the new bushing!

This gives me an idea Steve. We're certainly not all as ingenious as you are, and in the area of home-made useful tools for the Model "T", I think it would be neat to start a thread for folks as skilled as you are in "MAKING" tools that they have found to be useful and perhaps BETTER than the tools presently sold by the vendors. Not necessarily on this thread that you've started on "Spring & Perch Bushings: Remove & Install", but a separate thread. Would you consider starting such a thread with this great tool you've devised? I think "home-made tools" would be a great thing to share with the Model "T" community,.......thanx,........harold


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 03:10 pm:

Steve - In a word,.....SLICK! I can see where that would be a lot easier to use than the "hammer method", and certainly a lot easier on the new bushing!

This gives me an idea Steve. We're certainly not all as ingenious as you are, and in the area of home-made useful tools for the Model "T", I think it would be neat to start a thread for folks as skilled as you are in "MAKING" tools that they have found to be useful and perhaps BETTER than the tools presently sold by the vendors. Not necessarily on this thread that you've started on "Spring & Perch Bushings: Remove & Install", but a separate thread. Would you consider starting such a thread with this great tool you've devised? I think "home-made tools" would be a great thing to share with the Model "T" community,.......thanx,........harold


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 03:18 pm:

Ahhh,....I think I just figured out how this stupid "double post" thing happens to me! After proof-reading in "preview", I click on "post" and due to my poor Wi-Fi connection here in this motorhome where we are temporarily, I get a little wheel that just turns, and turns, and turns..........indicating that the computer is "processing" something, but it is hung up because something's wrong and that just goes on and on and on,......... So, I "back out" of the thing and "re-post", at which time the posting process is completed and I find out that the first one actually posted too! Dang! Not sure how to avoid that problem. O.K.....I'll post this and see what happens! Sorry this keeps happening,......harold


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 07:59 pm:

Harold S,
As far as I am concerned, don't worry about it. I always enjoy reading your comments. If it is double posted, I either ignore the second one, or enjoy it twice as much.
I do know about the little spinning thing. we have been having DSL/static-phone-line problems AGAIN lately.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 08:05 pm:

Also, Steve J, that is a much better way to handle bushings. For one thing, hammering on things like springs and perches can lead to stress fractures. The likelihood of a perch or spring breaking from such hammering is rather small, but every time I see a broken one, I wonder if it had been hammered upon?
Thank you so much for all you share with us!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 08:06 pm:

Many times I have had to use a hot wrench to loosen the old bushing. I use a bolt turned down to fit the bushing with a shoulder and drive them out. Next time I may try Steve Jelf's tool with a hot wrench if necessary.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ex trooper on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 08:20 pm:

Harold... when I post something here of length especially, Ill copy it to my clipboard (copy & paste) then post it. If the seed didn't take, I can paste it again. The other issue is getting sidetracked and forgetting that you've already proofread it and posted it, and posting it again. ws


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 09:36 pm:

Yeah Troop; I do that too! Usually an interrupting incoming phone call as I'm trying to post something!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Monday, July 08, 2013 - 09:41 pm:

Thanks for the kind words Wayne; You're one of the more experienced "T" guys who's posts I read pretty carefully too! Especially a guy like you with a "stock" "T" coupe just the way Ford built it plus lots of speedster "know-how" and a West Coast guy at that!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 10:14 pm:

Steve,

Can you elaborate on exactly what size both inside and outside diameters of the tubing you used? Or, would you be willing to make me one of these up so I get the exact sizes you used.

I tried making one of these, and the Chinese measurements don't work. LOL


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 10:18 pm:

And the reason I say that is because I went the cheapie route and used pipe nipple pieces, a 3/8 inch piece which I just measured to be 1/2 in and a 3/4 inch piece which I just measured to be 1 inch. Damn communists!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 11:30 pm:

You want standard pipe sizes used in plumbing, nothing exotic or special. The small size that presses the bushing out is plain old 3/8" black pipe. It's bigger than the ID of the bushing but small enough to fit loosely through the spring or perch. The bigger piece that receives the pressed out bushing is standard 3/4" black pipe, again nothing special or exotic. If you can find 7/16" all thread, that's perfect. If you can't and have to use 1/2", it may be a tight fit. Just hollow out the pipe a little with a round file until the all thread slides through easily. It shouldn't take much.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 11:37 pm:

I should have mentioned that you want unthreaded pieces of pipe, especially the small one. Threading tends to squeeze the opening a little smaller. A rolling pipe cutter does the same, so if you cut the pipe that way you want to ream or file the opening to full size to get that all thread through it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Tuesday, July 09, 2013 - 11:58 pm:

Then obviously the pieces from Hillman are marked wrong....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 - 01:06 am:

William, common black (or galvanized) pipe can be a bit confusing. Your measurements are about right, pipe is measured on the I.D. and the I.D. is very over sized. A 3/8" pipe is about 1/2" I.D. Then, add in manufacturing tolerances and different manufacturers and it gets even more confusing. Tubing is much easier as it goes by O.D. and wall thickness. A 1/2" tube will measure 1/2" O.D. Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick Goelz-Knoxville,TN on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 - 10:06 am:

Pipe and some tubing are "nominal" size, the average of the od and id it has been this way for over a hundred years.
I use a wrist pin and press them out but don't hammer on one as they can shatter, always wear gloves and safety glasses when doing this kind of work.One of the many voices of experience on the forum.
Rick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 - 10:30 am:

I've been using a bushing driver for years, but the above method is much better.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 - 11:40 pm:

That is slicker than owl s---.
Good 1 Steve. I must say,useing a hammer,you will no doubt screw up the new bushing.I have a good arbor press now but most of the work I would do like this is caught up for a while.
I will save these pictures for reference.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Thursday, July 18, 2013 - 07:48 am:

It always seemed cruel to me how the ford book showed the guy simply tapping the old one out and the new one in. Never seemed to work for me. I did a version of your same idea and it worked like a charm.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bruckzone/4353656312/in/set-72157623296187928


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Marshall V. Daut on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 06:58 pm:

Steve -
Do you weld the nut to the all-thread shaft on the short end (doing the actual pushing) or does the nut just push the flat washer and 3/8" pipe along the threaded shaft? I am tired of hacksawing, using so-called bushing drivers that don't work and only "drive" me to fits of rage, and heating the perches to remove these %$#^&* bushings. Enough! Your idea is great and I will get the parts at the hardware store tomorrow to make one of these tools.
I assume you are using hardened 7/16" nuts? The color of the washers indicates hardened to me, too. True? Is there such an animal as a hardened flat washer? :-)
Thanks in advance!
Marshall


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 07:04 pm:

Tractor supply has Grade 5&8 washers.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 09:08 pm:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 10:09 pm:

Will,

It was the Yanks who cocked up iron pipe sizes!

A 2" pipe in iron is 2-3/8 OD. But that is only half of it. A typical hardware store will offer a 'standard' size which is 2-1/16 ID...or a 'heavy' which is but 1-15/16 ID!

On the 3/8...ditto. oD will be just shy of 11/16". The standard duty pipe will allow a 7/16 rod to pass through, but a 'heavy' won't


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 11:22 pm:

You can weld a nut to the end of the rod, or you can put on two nuts and lock them together. I paid no attention to whether anything was hardened. Nothing was, and it didn't matter. Maybe it would if you ran in to a particularly stubborn bushing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 11:47 pm:

Pipe and tubing are usually threaded on joined on the OD, so the OD is held tightly and the wall thickness, and thus ID, is varied to meet service requirements. The pipe is described by the nominal ID and the schedule. Schedule 40 is standard, schedule 80 is heavier and schedule 5 or 10 is much thinner wall.

Copper water tube works somewhat like pipe in that the OD is held and wall thickness varied. For example 1/2 inch copper water tube is 5/8 inch OD. The thickest wall is type K, then type L, and the thinnest, type M. Under ground K is used and above ground, L was commonly used, however many houses are now plumbed with type M.

The OD of copper refrigeration tubing and automotive steel tubing is the same as the tube size, for example, 3/8 tubing is 3/8 OD.


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