Coilbox swith plates.

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Coilbox swith plates.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 10:56 am:

I need to know if the 1915 type coilbox brass plate will fit directly over the metal cover on the later switches. I have two really nice boxes with the full steel cover over the rubber switch and would like to use one of them in my 1915 speedster, with a 1915 brass switch plate on the front.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 11:08 am:

I've never tried this, but I wonder if the additional thickness of the extra plate would cause issues with the key, which must fit into the switch a certain distance in order to clear the tabs on the key.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 11:09 am:

Yep,at least it did for me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 03:40 pm:

So many people did that back in the '50s and '60s for brass era Ts, that many today think they are correct that way. They are not. Even I was taught that 1915 used the later switch with the brass cover on it. But proper research has since shown that the Bakelite based switch was used until well into 1916 followed by the pressed steel covered steel base switch. I have seen so many '14s and '15s with the brass plate over the pressed steel cover that they still look right to me, even though I know they are not. I do not know the precise change time nor how much cross-over time to consider normal for this one. However it would appear to me to be around mid '16 to early in '17 when they went to the mostly steel switch. It may have even been a bit later. There was also a stamped-with-name-and-positions flat steel cover used on the Bakelite switch for a very short time.
Some filing will likely be necessary for the key to work. But then I had to file my reproduction key to fit my Bakelite switch.
Unless you are trying to make an absolutely 1915 correct speedster, go for it. Even my "mostly correct" 1913 will probably have a funky coil box. I had already built it when I fell into a correct late '13 box. Now I hate to not use the one I made.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 06:12 pm:

Late '15 and '16 used the Bakelite switch with a STEEL front plate; actually blued (with a black bluing) with lettering stamped into it.
Here's one restored, and one in process, slightly different Ford script on it.
switch


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 09:53 pm:

Thanks Guys. I run a 27 coilbox and a Truefire under the hood. I want to put a coilbox sans porcelains on the firewall to use as a glove box and only have the later style box with steel covered switch. I did get lucky recently and found a really nice one piece 1915 lid for the box.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 10:11 pm:

The hard rubber or Bakelite switch with the steel face plate was used through at least the end of the 1917 model year (through July '17).

My dad's '17 touring is a July car and it has the hard rubber switch with the steel face plate. The car was purchased unrestored and in good condition in 1949 from the original family.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 11:26 pm:

Thank you Erik J! I am always trying to pin down some of these details in my own mind as I try to make one of my cars more correct. As much as I can, I try to nudge others to want to do the same. It truly is amazing how the knowledge of model Ts has grown in the past 40 years. How late the Bakelite (hard rubber?) switch was used may seem a little thing. But there are so many cars out there now that are wrong because of the misinformation around 40 plus years ago. I remember looking at a 1923 runabout that had a '13/'14 rear end in it. The people thought it was correct for the car, simply from a different supplier.
Again, thank you.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 01:27 pm:

Wayne:

John Regan has really good information on the steel face plates through the 1917 model year - see the thread below:


http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/121264.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 10:05 pm:

Erik
Thanks for posting that. I had not done so yet. I have it on my saved list.


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration