MY FATHER IN LAW JUST WENT INTO A NURSING HOME. HE HAS HAD 4 STROKES AND CAN NO LONGER COMMUNICATE. HE HAS A 27 T THAT I NEED TO TAKE FROM OHIO TO WYOMING. THAT IS WHERE THE BUYER LIVES. CAN YOU GIVE ME ADVICE ON WHAT TO BUY. I ASSUME A TANDEM AXLE. i PLAN TO BUY USED AND SELL ONCE I TRANSPORT THE CAR. THANKS, RALPH
E-MAIL JOHN62@CENTURYLINK.NET CELL 303-908-2556
You could also rent a Uhaul trailer
Model T's don't weigh much. Many of us use a single-axle trailer. Twelve feet is long enough if it has a rail at the front; you can bump the front tires against the rail and cinch it to it using a chain and boomer. Then a bit of a tie-down on the rear axle will do it.
If it is a rag top version. Do not go much over 35mph or there will be damage. fyi
Ralph,There are people who advertize haulling on the swap site.It's hard to give good advise without knowing what your pulling with? What sort of value do you place on the car? In mho i like longer trailers,ratchett straps with loop slings [no hooks],and tandem axel with brakes and controller.Bud.
I recommend using Uhaul's "Auto Transport" trailer (NOT the car dolly). I rented it many times to haul my Model T before buying a trailer.
As others will mention, the Model T only goes 35mph going down the road under its own power. Keep that in mind when you're towing. Tie down or remove anything that could come out especially if it's an open convertible top car.
Here's what I'm talking about:
Having no idea the condition of your Dads model T I would highly suggest either hiring out the job or buy an enclosed. Between road hazards and what ever else can happen along the way a lot of damage can happen. Your buyer may not be happy when you get it to him dinged up. I haul mine with a 14ft enclosed. I have a steel sheet on the front of my trailer as a guard and you should see the small dents in it from stones and what ever hits it in transport. You can almost hire the job cheaper than doing it yourself.
Why not rent a box van and tie it down inside? Then you won't have to worry about damage enroute.
Can you post a picture of car or a description
of it, there are many answers so far but with out more information just guessing, also what is your tow vehicle.
I towed my coupe, touring and speedster most everywhere from San Francisco to Calgary and Seattle to Nashville on an open 12' single axle trailer with no problems. Many trips from long to short over the last 20+ years. I typically stay about 60 on the freeways and do take care to secure the top of the touring in a good boot. The trailer has brakes and I've towed with both a '91 S-10 and an '06 Silverado half ton.
The safest way to move the car is to pay someone with good insurance to haul it in an enclosed vehicle, the next best bet is to tow in an enclosed trailer (or van), assuming your tow vehicle is up to the task. An open trailer works fine and I've been satisfied towing that way but there is greater risk of damage to the towed car.
Carefully estimate the time and expenses of doing this yourself. Unless you want to take the trip for other reasons, it's probably more sensible to hire the job out.
I used a U-Haul trailer just like the one in Dan B.'s photo to haul the TT once. It worked OK, but no matter what I did I couldn't get quite enough hitch weight. As long as I maintained a conservative speed, say around 50 MPH things were fine. If I exceeded that speed and hit even a small bump it would bounce around too much for my taste.
Of course, the TT is longer and has a solid oak stake side bed, so the center of gravity is certainly further back than on a regular T.
Anyhow, whatever you do, be careful!
The general opinion seems to be a U-Haul, and I agree. But, I used a U-Haul truck.
Using a trailer, whether bought or rented, depends on what you have to tow it with, and what you intend to do when you get there.
If your tow vehicle is marginal in any way for this job, I wouldn't recommend it. Safety first, and don't want to burn up a perfectly good family sedan delivering a car you're selling!
And I wouldn't recommend buying a used trailer for the job. The chances are nearly 100% that its tires are rotten, and a blowout on the Interstate means loss of the Model T, possibly your tow car, and maybe your life.
And if all you're going to do is turn around and go home as soon as you deliver the car, that's a waste.
Renting a U-Haul truck solves several problems.
One, it can handle the load and the speed with no trouble. Two, you can drop it in Wyoming and fly home - probably cheaper. Three, if anything goes awry, you call U-Haul and they come out and take care of it.
Two caveats: One, U-Haul's policy is that they do not allow you to carry an automobile in their trucks. That's based on their experience that thieves will steal a car, drive it into a truck, and carry it away unseen. I got around that by telling them I was moving my daughter home from college. Realistically, as long as you're not carrying an auto or explosives, they don't much care.
Two: There is no provision for tie-downs inside a U-Haul truck. I got around that by buying a couple of 2x6's and four 2x4's, and making ramps to drive the car into the truck, and then using the same lumber to chock the car in place inside the truck. The front wheels of a T are the forward-most part of the car, and they rest against the hump in the front of the truck that goes over the cab. The only chocks required are simple side-to-sides on the front and rear wheels, and behind the rear wheels, which chocks rest against the inside of the roll-down door when it's closed. Easy stuff to build with a hammer and saw, and no precision required.
Come to think of it, you'll need to get the car out of the truck in Wyoming, so keep the ramps and use other lumber for the chocks.
Measure the width of the Model T. On mine, the widest point was the front hub caps. Then make sure the door on the U-Haul truck is wide enough. Also check length and height while you're at it. You'll find, as I did, that there is a U-Haul truck that looks like it was made for the job!
Figure most of a day to get it in and chocked, and a couple of hours to unload at the other end.
Then you return the truck to the nearest U-Haul outlet, and get the buyer to take you to the airport. Done!
This may not appear to be the absolute cheapest way to do the job, but it's the safest and in some ways the easiest all-in-all.
Now, if you have a tow vehicle that can well handle the weight and load, and you want to fiddle around and sightsee in Wyoming, then by all means rent the U-Haul Car Carrier, as suggested above. But not some used trailer you pick up for a song. That's a disaster looking for the worst possible place and time to happen.
One other point about buying a used trailer -- it won't have brakes, and you need them! U-Haul carriers have "surge brakes", and you need to have them check the operation of the brakes and the condition of the tires before you drive out of the lot.
Uhaul is the way to go. Rent it for the job and return it. Here is a forum members T from a while back.
There's your answer pictured right above this post. Best solution period. Secure the top (lowered and tied down and secure/remove the floor boards. They tend to jump around and leave early.
Seat cushions will jump out also, if not tied in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
" MY FATHER IN LAW JUST WENT INTO A NURSING HOME. HE HAS HAD 4 STROKES AND CAN NO LONGER COMMUNICATE. HE HAS A 27 T THAT I NEED TO TAKE FROM OHIO TO WYOMING. THAT IS WHERE THE BUYER LIVES. CAN YOU GIVE ME ADVICE ON WHAT TO BUY. I ASSUME A TANDEM AXLE. i PLAN TO BUY USED AND SELL ONCE I TRANSPORT THE CAR. THANKS, RALPH
E-MAIL JOHN62@CENTURYLINK.NET CELL 303-908-2556 "
Why are you transporting a car for the Buyer ?
Why is the Buyer not making their own arrangements ?
Bad idea ...
Your insurance will not cover you because the car
does not belong to you - the owners' insurance will not cover you because you are not a member of their household.
The least expensive trailer is an open landscape trailer used, obviously by landscapers for their equipment, and has a good ramp, good rails, and good tie down places. If the car is an open car, I would be sure to drop the top, secure the seats and tie the hood down. I'm sure you can find someone who would loan the trailer but if you need to buy one there are usually used ones around and then sell it.
If you own a Ford Explorer, Uhaul will not rent an auto trailer to you. Don't know about other Fords. They told me the litigation was too expensive when using the above automobile.
I don't know what you're towing with, or the shape of the T. A new 12 ft single axle landscaping trailer will probably be cheaper than a used tandem axle. But, that big ramp is like a sail! I've got one and the first time on the interstate with it, hauling only a motorcycle, the fuel milage was terrible. I later hauled a T on it 500 miles--did fine. I took the end gate/ramp off and carried it in the truck bed and all was fine. Make sure you know what you're doing before you attempt the trip. If you've never pulled a trailer, or you plan to tow with a small car, or you absolutely have to sell the trailer in Wyoming to make the trip home--don't even start--pay someone to haul it for you. Good luck.
U Haul refused to rent me a trailer as a Model T was not in their inventory list of approved vehicles in their computer.
u suggest going to a internet site such as ubid etc and hire an insured delivery service. The buyer is usually required to provide transport
I had to move furniture and my T. I used a u-haul.
Two things nice about Gorges choice,he can have a flat/blowout on the trailer and remain safe/proably still moble to get off the road.I don't think he has to worry about the tail wagging the dog either! I found a phone number and called to check ---'- rates and the responce was [when you have something to haull ask me.]Bud.
Good to talk with you, glad the T is going to
Denver with a carrier instead of you hauling it.
Not from personal experience, but I seem to recall threads here in the past that offered two solutions to the U-Haul Ford Explorer and Model T problem. I believe the suggestion was to book the trailer on line and tell them the tow vehicle is a Mercury Mountaineer and that the vehicle to be hauled is a Model A.
If you lie to U Haul about either your tow vehicle or the vehicle you are towing on a trailer you rent from them - there is no insurance in place from either U Haul or your insurance - period.
No liability insurance - no comprehensive insurance.
Also - if you transport a vehicle in one of their moving trucks - no insurance.
Their moving trucks are designed - engineered - built to haul cargo and not automobiles.
There are no tie downs suitable for securing
a vehicle in a U Haul rental truck.
It is amazing the lengths some folks go to
to try and save a buck - when all they are doing
is taking some really stupid risks ....
When I hauled my TT, the lady at U-Haul couldn't find "Ford Model T" in her system, so she called the "head office". They couldn't find anything either. She hung up the phone, looked at me and said, "So, you said your're hauling a Toyota Corolla, right?" I said, "Right!" She did the paperwork and I was on my way.
Yeah, yeah, I know. Liability and all that cr*p. Oh well....
As of one week ago, the uhauls around here have model T ford in the computer now. In the past it was not there. Nice to not have to get "creative" in describing the vehicle being towed for the reasons already stated.
uSE THE "SEARCH" FUNCTION ON THE FORUM. type IN "TRAILER" Use Years 2009-2012 This will bring up scores of useful articles and information
Jim, would "full disclosure" suggest that you should add that you are in the car hauling business and that you are in competition with people like U-Haul who make it possible for people to haul cars themselves? That doesn't take away from the accuracy of what you say, but does perhaps indicate a potential bias in your posts. Just sayin'....
I think if you own the trailer, your liability insurance will cover it. I clipped a Toyota Camry with my trailer last fall while hauling my Model T. Nationwide paid the claim quickly and efficiently.
I am NOT in competition with U Haul ....
I DO NOT rent trailers or trucks.
Apples and Oranges.
Some folks find it necessary to LIE to a trailer or truck rental agency to " do it themselves ".
What a Fool Believes - He Sees ......
I bet its costing about 2000.00 or so to have a professional tow it. I have paid to move cars before, and it is not cheap.
C'mon, Jim, you know what I meant. A circus and a movie theater are in competition. A movie theater doesn't have elephants and a circus doesn't show a feature film on a big screen, but they are in competition for consumers' entertainment dollars. You and U-Haul are in competition for car owners' hauling dollars.
If you re-read my post, I made it clear that was what I meant. I also said, "That doesn't take away from the accuracy of what you say, but does perhaps indicate a potential bias in your posts."
That's it. No more, no less.
I paid a mover once $11OO.OO to move my Pie Wagon
from Alaska to Colorado , with my household goods.
But always moved them with me after that.
I've hauled T's with my own little two-axle flatbed, and with a U-Haul trailer. Both ways worked fine. U-Haul had no problem with the Suburban, and I didn't lie about what I was hauling. I told the U-Haul guy it was a 1923 Ford, and HE entered Model A in the form.
Anytime you're using a rental trailer, DON'T depend only on their tie-down equipment. Use your own so the vehicles stays put.
My hauling speed limit is 55 mph, and wind has been mo problem at that speed.
I haul my 24 touring on an open flat bed trailer. I have the top up and side curtains installed. I run 60-65 mph. I don't think I would want to go any faster.
Just a suggestion, I would explain to the new owner that if they want to take the car on a long distance (over 50 miles) in order to attend an event, they will need a trailer. The two of you could decide on the make, configuration, and model along with accessories and the new owner buys the trailer.
I hauled my '26 coupe from Maine to Florida with no problems on a U-Haul open trailer and could go as fast as I needed to to keep up with traffic. It was very sturdy and safe.
I was warned that U-Haul would not rent to a customer if the car was not on their inventory, so when I filled out the paperwork I said I was hauling a 1970 VW bug, which was no problem. Jim Patrick
Insurance of any kind is based upon truth....and honesty.......
A company agrees to pay for a loss - be it a life, medical payments or property damage.....for a fee.
In return for this promise, a few questions are asked (at least printed on the application) i.e. Have you had renal failure, cancer, etc. What is your health history? What is your occupation? What are you going to carry in (or on) my equipment?
As long as NOTHING happens, EVERYTHING turns out OK.
HOWEVER, if you get sick - die - have a vehicle accident, and suffer some sort of injury, whether physical or financial, and look to the insurance company for satisfaction, when the company finds that misstatements were made, you (or your survivors) will be left swinging in the breeze.
Not much difference between a politician lying or an applicant making false statements .....
One big trouble with this country is the morals are going into the toilet.....lying may give you a temporary "high", but don't look for satisfaction when you need assistance.....be it a life insurance policy, medical payments policy, or a hazard insurance policy.
This is not to say that Insurance Companies don't try to reduce their payments in the event of a loss, IT IS to say that the easiest way for them to NOT PAY is to show that the applicant lied on the application.
Be honest - enjoy life - sleep peacefully.
And this is not intended to focus on any ONE - I happen to have some rental apartments, and I am so aggravated by the lies people tell - so when I see it here, it pushes my buttons.
Rant for the day is over (I hope)!
I would drive it there and fly home, much more enjoyable
I would recommend UShip.com. I've used it several times with success. I have to second to person higher up that said seat cushion will jump out if not secured. I had a seat cushion on a buggy not show up on the other end.
Jim hauled a center door from the north east back to the Model T Museum and did a good and safe job. I woundn't hesitate to use him again
My two cent's worth:
I just recently hauled a 26 touring from Connecticut to Halifax Nova Scotia. I drove both directions in rain. Rented an auto carrier from U Haul here for a little over $50.00 a day.. Had it for three days. Took a large tarp,lots of tiedown's and a roll of duct tape.Took eleven hour's each way so not a huge expense over all. removed the top half of the windshield and put the roof down. Towed through torrential down pours,drifting rain,sideways rain,you name it. Arrived home put the windshield back on, roof up and away I went. Since then I purchased a cargo trailer which I transport it in. No more tarps needed.
Dave, I got no "temporary high" by telling U-Haul I was hauling a VW instead of a T. It was the suggestion of the U-Haul counterman at the point of origin in Maine to find a suitable "substitute" on the list and since a VW is approximately the same size and weight as a T, we both benefitted (1970 VW: 1,918 lbs x 13' long; '26 T Coupe, 1,860 lbs. x 11.5' long). I got the trailer I needed and U-haul got the business. A win/win situation for both of us.
His thought on the matter was that, just because a certain obsolete vintage car is no longer on the roster, does not make it ineligible to be hauled as long as it is not too long, too big or too heavy for the trailer, which is their main concern. The list of modern day cars is just a guide for the U-haul representative to determine if a certain car exceeds the capacity of the trailer and by today's standards a Model T is small enough and light enough to be safely hauled on a U-haul trailer. Luckily, I had a U-Haul customer rep that was willing to work with me in order to make it happen. Not someone who was so rigid that he was unwilling to accommodate the needs of a customer, or I would have had to buy a trailer or hire a driver with a trailer to haul the car 1,500 miles from Maine to Florida for me and and those were not options I was willing to consider. Jim Patrick
PS. According to all the pictures of T's on U-Haul trailers posted on this thread, apparently there have been many others that have been able to rent U-Haul trailers, even though the Model T is not on U-Haul's list. I would be interested in knowing how they were able to rent their trailers.
I agree with you 100%!
Towed vehicle requirements
- Must not weigh in excess of 5,290 lbs.
- Must have a maximum outside-to-outside tire width of 79.25" Note: outside tire width over 75" must use late-model U-Haul Auto Transport (identifiable by silver galvanized color).
- Must have a maximum wheelbase (distance from front axle to rear axle, usually posted on the driver's side door jamb) of 133 inches.
- Low-hanging equipment on the vehicle being towed such as spoilers, air dams, ground effects, etc., may be damaged by contact with the Auto Transport during loading and unloading. Make sure there is enough clearance for these items.
"PS. According to all the pictures of T's on U-Haul trailers posted on this thread, apparently there have been many others that have been able to rent U-Haul trailers, even though the Model T is not on U-Haul's list. I would be interested in knowing how they were able to rent their trailers."
After reading through this thread I thought I would go and check the U-Haul website. The Ford Model T is listed in their drop-down list of cars for "towed vehicles" (along with the Model A and a host of other old cars) and so long as your towing vehicle and hitch class checkout, the website says that you are good to go to tow a Model T on a U-Haul trailer. I have rented car hauling trailers from U-Haul before for "old" cars, just not for a Model T, also their 5 x 9 trailer for hauling around various Farmall Cub tractors. I would rather use my limited garage space for a car than to keep a trailer.
Thank you Peter. That is great to know. Back in 2002, when I hauled my T from Maine to Florida, it was not on the list, so, apparently, since then, there have been enough Model T owners needing U-haul's services that they have found it advantageous to add the T to their list. Now we have one less thing upon which to get our "temporary high". Jim Patrick
I did not/do not want to get into any sort of urinating contest here....just trying to share some information.
Each has a different risk tolerance - personally, I enjoy flying airplanes but would not consider bungee jumping.
Having been on both sides of the insurance fence (buyer as well as seller), my intent was just to share the reason(s) some claims go unpaid.
As late as Nov. 2010 when I bought my 1927 Model T in Nebraska,the T was not on the Uhaul list.The solution by the Uhaul agent "this must be a 1928 Ford".I went with his suggestion and the trailer towed great from Nebraska to So. Cal. no problem.Wouldn't hesitate to use Uhaul car trailer again.
No problem Dave. I understand your point, to a point... It was just that most of your post was about being dishonest, saying that "one big trouble with this country is that morals are going into the toilet...lying may give you a "temporary high..." and since it came right after my thread, I assumed your comments were directed at me, which I did not appreciate. Who would?! That is why I came back and gave you all the facts, so I could be removed from your list of those you feel are destroying the morals of this country and who get a high from lying. Respectfully. Jim Patrick
I rented a U haul last year to haul a T and again in May for my Connecticut trip. Both times I told the agent I was hauling a T and supposedly wasn't a problem. He didn't seemed concerned and just rented it to me.
I now have my own covered wagon to haul but was quite satisfied with U haul. If only they rented cargo trailers then I wouldn't need to buy one.
When I rented a trailer for my Model T from Uhaul, the Model T was on the list.
Maybe they've updated it.
Jim Patrick posted the key to this whole discussion above: "His thought on the matter was that, just because a certain obsolete vintage car is no longer on the roster, does not make it ineligible to be hauled as long as it is not too long, too big or too heavy for the trailer, which is their main concern. The list of modern day cars is just a guide for the U-haul representative to determine if a certain car exceeds the capacity of the trailer and by today's standards a Model T is small enough and light enough to be safely hauled on a U-haul trailer." I suspect that the U-Haul insurance - despite dire warnings to the contrary in this thread - is not invalidated by using their trailer to haul a car not on their suggested list, but by using it to haul a car that exceeds the limitations of their hauling specifications. The T doesn't exceed those specifications. If I had to haul my 1936 English Austin Ten on a U-Haul trailer, I am sure that it is not on their list, but it would be covered by the insurance because it is well within the limits of their specs.
Many years ago I rented a U-Haul trailer to pull my 1929 Buick (Heavy). That trailer was built very heavy... overkill to protect the renter and to protect them from renters who might overload a smaller trailer. The tiedowns were heavy and strong... I've no problems with them. All the trailers had surge brakes as they couldn't be sure your vehicle would have a proper controller... you couldn't back the trailer up unless you disabled the brakes... that was not considered a problem because if you can't figure out how to disable a surge brake, you probably shouldn't try backing up!
You had to have a mongo huge vehicle to pull that behemouth.
Last week I rebuilt my trailer... the old plain wood deck had rotted so I took the opportunity to install all the updates I have been wanting. I still ended up with a simple trailer which is easy to load and amazingly easy to pull.
This is not the first trailer I've had, but I doubt I will ever need another. The only other options I could want over what I have here are 1) enclosed trailer, or 2) tilt bed so no ramps are needed.
Today I had my 1913 out and the fan caught the overflow tube and ripped it out. So I got to go home and get the trailer for it's first trial
What follows are a couple of photos I just took. The upgrades from stock original trailer are:
Terry,I like the looks of those tie down rails! It also looks as if it would be easy to make a adjustable stop using your empty slots?Bud.
Bud, I set the rails so that the car is centered when the tires are on the rails... so adjustable stops would be a real cinch to make. With these strap tiedowns a stop is not really necessary, but since you can tie down anywhere you could also figure where you want it so the CG weights your tongue properly and then put your adjustable stops/chocks where the front tires need to be.
If I did that I would mark the slots the stops are to be placed in... maybe with a dab of yellow paint.
Terry,Who handles those rails? I have flush mount folding D rings but the rails centred would be a nice touch!!Bud.PS,Did you apply? Bud.
Bud, Google e-track. There are hundreds of suppliers. Here's one: http://www.shipperssupplies.com/ETrack/
I've been getting my stuff at swap meets, that link has the parts cheaper... but you pay shipping. There are lots of different attachments which will let you do almost anything you want.
Bud, I did apply but have heard nothing (HFM OCF) it's getting a bit late for me so I may just plan on doing next year... I'd think they would want a '13 Brigade car... but who knows?
The buyer needs to pay for a professional transport company to move the car and no need for you to worry about trailers.
Terry,Added to favorites! Hope to see you!Bud.