I have a new 25 T project. Replaced wheels, bearings, brake shoes. It drove OK when I bought it but wasn't "dialed" in on the gears and the brakes and wheels were old.
Now that I've put new brake shoes on, I'm having trouble fine tuning everything in...seems brake shoes engage too soon on one wheel...also seems like free neutral is out of whack. The car is up on very sturdy and stable blocks, lift from doing the bearings/wheels. Before I take it down, is there a "process/steps" to adjusting parking brake/free neutral/low I can do? It idles and runs good at low RPM,so I wonder if it would be good to try and adjust everything while up in the air and wheels can spin?
Any help in steps to take first would be appreciated! Thank you.
When the lever is straight up and down, the clutch should be in (neutral) but the parking brakes not yet engaged.
Once you pull past center, the parking brakes should start engaging.
Adjusting the parking brakes is easy. Each brake rod has a clevis that is threaded onto the rod. It's best to adjust the brakes with both rear wheels jacked up. If you have any mechanical ability you should be able to figure it out.
Regarding the free neutral - adjusting the clutch handbrake bolt and clutch linkage - there are plenty of posts on the forum that you can use as a reference. Note that if your transmission worn out, it may be tough to get a free neutral.
You need to first adjust the parking brake so that both brakes are fully engaged with the lever about 2" from the seat, lever pulled all the way back.
The bands for the brake and clutch need to be adjusted so that full engagement is reached with the pedals about 1 1/2" off the floor.
Reverse band needs to be adjusted as loose as possible while still reaching full engagement - no slipping. This one if too loose will try to stay engaged. Best to experiment with the car on jacks.
Link between the clutch pedal and the clutch arm needs to be adjusted as follows:
Move the brake lever forward all the way full released.
Pull back (towards the seat) on the clutch pedal. Adjust the clevis so the pin can be removed and inserted easily. Install cotter pins when complete.
Last, adjust the bolt that rides on the parking brake cross shaft cam. Adjust the length of the bolt so that when the brake lever is pulled back it moves the clutch pedal about half way forward.
Thanks guys! Got it running great except for one strange thing....The driver side brake rod (going back to the cam) seemed to short to reach the brake handle when at Neutral with brake off (middle, straight up). I looked at the cam arm that attaches to the brake rod and it is at a different angle than the other side (which works great as designed). I looked and the two pins are in and it seems firm, but it has too much angle and engages the brake too soon. The pins are very rusted in there and I can't seem to get them out....any secrets? I'm thinking I should install a new cam and arm and see if that fixes the issue.
I think you're right about the brake cam lever. I know the 26-27's are easy to mistake and reverse. Could be the case here.
Rowland, you perhaps need a starting point before you try anything. I suggest disconnecting the rods at the back and noting how the levers sit. If they are different, one may be bent or the one lying further forward may be fitted to a wrong cam. The rivet holes are drilled at different angles for each side.
If they both sit at the same angle, the short brake rod may be from a 26-7 large drum rear end. Perhaps check their lengths off the car.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
First thing to do is get the free neutral. If you haven't adjusted the pedals yet, leave it as is and pull the clevis pins out of the brake rods. Now test for all the pedals to work. They should each compress their respective bands when about 1 inch above the floorboard. That adjustment is made inside the transmission for the reverse and brake. The Low is adjusted by a large screw with a lock nut on the right outside of the transmission. The neutral is adjusted as shown on the picture posted by Royce.
Once all those adjustments are made, then with the parking brake all the forward you adjust the length of the rods so that the clevis pins will go in without pulling on the rods. At that point your parking brake should be applied when the lever is all the way back toward the seat. The neutral should be when the lever is straight up.
Next test the parking brake on a level straight area. It should not pull to one side. If it pulls, loosen the rod on that side by 1/2 turn and try again. Keep loosening 1/2 turn at a time until both wheels stop equally.
I've seen brake rods that have been cut off and threaded to compensate for wear in the shoes and the other parts. You might have to find another brake rod.
Thanks for all the good information guys. I need help on this too.
For a '26-27 large drum Ruckstell on a '23, which year brake rods would be correct?
Allan from down under.
Thanks guys....going to take rods off and check measurement for stock. I have a feeling they've been messed with to compensate for wear. May have to drill out the culprit cam lever pins as well and put a new cam on with the correct angle. Don't want to mess around with faulty brakes!!
Some people install brake rod clevis's with elongated slots to make adjustment easier.