Seeking to confirm on what I'm seeing is common when installing new fenders on a 80+ year old car and some adjustments will need to be taken to achieve appropriate fit. I have new fenders, running boards, splash pan & hood shelf/wood blocks.
First issue is the clearance between the hood shelf and the fender, there is a gap of 1/2" - 3/4". Not sure if this is common or not, but no reference since old blocks was gone.
Second issue is the fender is pushing the splash pan down which is contributing to the first issue, this is the same on both R & L fenders.
The fender to running board looks good on the left side, but the fender to frame doesn't appear to be right.
I'm guessing the running board brackets on the left side are hanging lower since this side had seen more use over time than the right side. Plan to take some more measurements to confirm.
Overall the fenders are of high quality and very heavy gauge material, appears I need to do some tweaking to make them fit.
The light bar bracket is square with the firewall so I feel good about this as I was a little concerned.
Dwight, the wood block on your hood shelf looks like it is too thick. I'm no expert but mine fit flat on the splash apron and fender.
The splash apron on the frame mount is normal, but it can be adjusted by shimming the body up.
That area is not a perfect fit due to the way they lapped one on the other. Some stressing will take place after everything is bolted tight.
Someone else may disagree with me and that is ok...
The hood shelf wood blocks on the Fordor are 1/2" thick. That is the same as the hood shelf where they insert.
They might have had some fit problems from the factory. I have 2 26's and on both, the front fenders have been cracked and welded at the area of compound curves between the actual curves of the fender and the curves where the fender and splash apron fit together. Add to this sagging over the years and possible collisions in which parts were bent, and you see that you will need to do some adjustment to get everything to go together. Now if you are trying to fit a new part to an old part, you could also have some problems, because the new part might not have been made exactly as the original part. Reverse engineering has a way of changing some things.
The wood blocks are easy to fix. Just plane or sand to fit. But before you do that remember you are also fitting the hood to the cowl and radiator, so your block might need to be a little thicker on one side than on the other, because the radiator might not be exactly in alignment with the cowl. The radiator on a 26 fits on top of the hood shelf so it's height on one side or the other can be adjusted fractions of an inch by the thickness of the wood block.
Also, after looking closer at the pictures it appears the flat area of the fender that sit on the frame needs to be bent down to raise the fender up. This should also make the fitment at the running board closer to level with the fender. I use vise grips and clamps to fit everything before any bolts are placed. On some of the repops you may need to redrill the bolt holes or ream them out to get the bolts in. Clamping then bolting will hold it as close to correct as it can get. Hope this helps. .
I forgot to mention the weight of the fender will cause the flat area to bend up which puts the rear of the fender down. The last thing I fasten after fitting is the top of the splash apron to the bottom of the body. If the splash apron is fastened before all other fitting you lose the ability to adjust the running board and the fender. Just what I ran in to while working on the two Fordors. Others here may have a better way to go.
Don / Norman thanks for the response on the challenge I'm working on. I did check the wood blocks on the hood shelf, the front one is 9/16" but the rear is 5/8" thick, so it sounds like a little sanding.
As for the fitting I do have a few pairs of vise grips, but a few more won't hurt. Just wanted to see if anyone had any insight from past experience and get a few pointers before I start making modifications.
I have the same problem with fender sag and I am going to try to put a 8 inch long 1/2 inch thick bar that is 1 1/2 wide under my front fender/splash apron joint and see it that will hold it up. I have the room for the 1/2 inch bar because I had to shim The rear of the front fenders on both sides up that far to get the hood to fit right. And yes my frame is straight....
I noticed that when you get in and out of the car the fenders are pulled down and over the years they just sag there. The running boards pull them down too, and if you jack up your car on the front running board bracket a little bit you will see your gap close, because the running boards brackets are bent down too.
Ps. Fit your hood before doing to much and make sure the hood gap is just enough for you to slid your fingers in. And it should be about or close to the same front to back.
Thanks for the information on what you found with your car. It's good to get feed back before yo get to far down stream and need to go back and find you have more work to do. It may take a number of fits, but it will get there.
Here is what I started with.
Why don't you clean up the original parts and put them back on, then sell your new stuff on E-Bay. I think it will solve your fit problems.
Your original parts look like they are in real good shape.