I need to know what a NH carburetor inlet needle seating tool looks like. If any one could post a picture of one, or better yet loan me one, I can have one made. This tool is mentioned on page 208 of the Service Book, paragraph 884 but the photo doesn't show me much!
Isn't it a glorified screwdriver ? Grind one to fit
Here's my bet. :-)
Is this what your asking about, can't find the one I made but it worked.
You can usually polish the needle with emery paper, then place it in the seat and tap it lightly with a small hammer and you are good to go. Jay was on the mark as to the tool required.
Check out the MTFCA Carb manual. There are pics of several tools.
I don't see how the tool Bob posted will work for the float needle which has a rounded top! The carburetor manual put out by the club has nothing on this part either. I suspect the tool I'm referring to is probably a straight rod, possibly either 1/4" or 5/16". One end is most likely counterbored 1/8" so the needle will slightly press in, but can be easily extracted, and yes they do mention a hammer!
Sounds like the Grose ball and seat. You need a thin wall socket to remove those.
Nope! It's in the Ford service book as I mentioned.
Can't be stock. The stock seat can be removed with just a screwdriver. Can you post a pic? The old style Grose valves had a pin sticking out. You need a screwdriver with a slot cut in it for those.
Ok, I looked at the picture. The tool is a hex shaft with a cylindrical guide. On the bottom side of the hex are two blades on either side of the guide. I have that tool in a Solex tool kit but you should be able to remove the seat using a screwdriver. The center guide is optional.
Forgot to mention- Remove the float needle before attempting to remove the seat.
Two different things being mentioned here. The hammer is for seating the needle in the seat. This is only for the metal on metal needles and seats, not the viton ones. And you use a small hammer and use it lightly. The tool to remove the seat from the body is a bolt with a pin inserted the end of it and the sides milled (or filed) off to make a sort of screwdriver with a pin extending out the end. The pin keeps it from slipping out of the slot. You can use a screwdriver, but it needs to fit and fit properly, or you will booger up the slot in the seat.
Easy way to make a tool to remove seats is to take a flat wood bit -- the kind that is used for drilling holes in studs to run wire through, etc; buy a cheap set, find the one closest to the seat size and grind it to fit. Then.......... and this is the important part .......... put it in your drill press and pull it down tight with the bit in the slot of the seat, grasp the flat part with a small adjustable wrench and turn it out. Locking the drill press will usually prevent it from pulling up out of the seat. Works for me about 95% of the time.
Sounds like a good idea. Im gonna try that next time.
Ken, you need to read my question one more time. There is no mention of the needle seat. I have a dandy tool to get them out. It's the needle SEATING tool I'm after. It is pictured on page 208, but it doesn't give a description of what it actually looks like. I checked a Stevens catalog, and it's not in there.
Jay - If that hammer doesn't work try this.
If your still having trouble this may help
This one never fails.
Larry - As already mentioned, you don't use the tool with the Viton tipped needles. I kept reading your post over and over and came to the conclusion no one else understands why you want the tool either. If you are installing the old needle, use a pin punch and tap it. No special tool needed.
Probably one of these:
3Z-3222 INLET NEEDLE SEATING TOOL
(Holley carburetor, Service Bulletin, July 1, 1919)
3Z-3222-2 INLET NEEDLE SEATING TOOL
(Holley carburetor, Service Bulletin, Nov. 15, 1919)
(Taken from the Ford parts list, also there is more info in the service bulletins.)
I suspect that it uses a socket of some sort that goes over the needle to grip it for turning it while tapping on it.
Larry, your correct. I didn't understand what you were asking. I have done this job without that slick tool. It would be nice to have. I have had good luck with several shop made alternatives. Lite tapping is the key. Most any brass drift of the correct size works great. The special tool lets you easily rotate the needle between taps, but that can be done less elegantly too.
Good luck on the project.
Ken, finally someone understands what I'm talking about! It would be a neat tool to have for the man with everything! I found the listing, and photos in both of my original bulletins. Thanks.
Larry, I understand your problem of when you're looking for a particular tool and people start telling you what you can use as an alternative, or different ways to do the job, when all you want is that particular tool.
I've been down that rocky road myself, more than once.
Hang in there, it'll turn up, sooner or later.
I did not read read Larry's original question thoroughly nor did I look on page 208 of the Service manual before I made my post.
Also, if you read the service bulletin for 11/5/19, that Ken referenced it explains how to use the tool.
There is so much to learn.
I knew my post was slightly off topic, I was responding to Hal about removing the seat and an easy way to make a tool. Sorry, I should have known better than to try to share information. I've rebuilt somewhere around 650 carburetors in the last 7 or 8 years, thought I had a couple slick tricks.
There was valuable information shared in this thread.
I saw the carb tools in the MTFCA manual and thought how do you make them without a lathe.
Funny. I was afraid we would get the same complaint that Ken Todd had above on the thread about using a lawn mower carb on a T. Instead, the original poster has decided to just use a hot air pipe on his NH (As Henry made it). I'm glad we didn't just answer his original question.
If anyone has this 3Z-3222 tool, please post a picture of it for all to see. I suspect it is a rod counterbored to fit the top of the needle, and is probably a slight press fit.