Model T Transmission rebuild, The Way We Do It

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Model T Transmission rebuild, The Way We Do It
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 07:01 pm:

The Brake drum was shot, so we ordered one from J&M Machine, Oh, what a Beauty, in every way.

I started taking pictures today, and will add more as I progress, as if I wait, it will take a long time to get them all listed.









































Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 07:11 pm:

Pretty ho-hum until I saw your raised bed pressing blocks. Brilliant! I've been lugging around chunks of 3x4x13 solid. I like the idea of face to face channels. I may steal that one. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 08:02 pm:

More,













Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 01:06 am:

Ken - On close examination of Mr. Kohnke's beautiful photos, I think they are four angle irons rather than two face-to-face channels,......same idea tho' and as you say,....a great idea!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 01:09 am:

Nope! I'm wrong,.....they're channels! One is just turned 90 degrees from the other one is all,....my mistake,....sorry,....harold


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By joe bell on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 07:34 am:

Herm, The KR Wilson tool is a great thing for NOS drums but the drums that have been turned is a whole different story? I bought one for for the heck of it and I was surprised how accurate it was for a stock drum. I have played with it for turned drums and have found the lathe was a better deal then. What do you use when they are turned down? Thanks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 03:40 pm:

Joe,I always check the drums with expanding mandrels to see where the out sides are with the center, and that is with out bushings.

The first time I knew the center was right, as I check, and recheck, and found out with the mandrel, that the drum was sprung a little, and that is a waste of time, and bushings.

If the drum is sprung, which isn't too often, but happens, I pitch the drum.

The drums that the out sides were cut, or out of round with the center, they do go in a 4 Jaw, and get the bushing shaft with gear centered and bored to within a .001

Then they go in the Wilson jig and centered on the reamer taper, locked down, and the last .001 is reamed with the hole, and Jig.
The out side band area does not touch, or do you want it to.

I have had I think 3 re-rebuilds that I had to do this way, other wise, its normal.

Then the out side is trued again, and no I don't have to take off a 1/4 inch.

Thanks Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 04:08 pm:

Herm, are those the original reamers? What do you do when they get worn out?

Stphen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 05:50 pm:

I have almost 3 sets. Two sets were were N.O.S..

So far I have used both sets, and sharpened both sets once when it gets time.

Counting just transmissions, I should have done about 350 to 400.

I don't use them dry, as I use cutting oil on the bushings.

You have to check the reamer under a big Mag. Glass, to see if there is any reflection of light of the edge that cuts. If there is, that's the time to sharpen, or you can ruin the reamer.

When you sharpen a reamer, they only sharpen the taper part, if they have to sharpen the side, they some times can do it once, a very little, or the hole size gets smaller.

While they would still bore straight, you would have to finish with a hone, or a different reamer of some kind.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 07:51 pm:

More

This is a Jig I made, to align Ream the Tail shaft bushing, as out of Ford Service.

This is a Jig I made, to align Ream the Tail shaft bushing, as out of Ford Service.

Align Reaming Tail Shaft Bushing., OK Paul?

Align Reaming Tail Shaft Bushing, OK Paul?

Triple Gear Reamer., Ken, wake up, Wilson Benches coming. First one is a starter, and Gen. \table, I have Two.

Triple Gear Reamer, Ken, wake up, Wilson Benches coming. First one is a starter and Gen. table, I have Two.







Showing Reamer Finish.

Showing Reamer Finish.



Parts Ready to Machine

Parts Ready to Machine


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 08:21 pm:

More



























Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 08:35 pm:

I don't know how much you are taking off the drums, that low drum especially. Low drums are so thin to begin with I think it would be better to polish the existing surface and keep as much metal as you can.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Husa on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 09:19 pm:

Great photos!
Your attention to detail and your CLEAN work area are an inspiration!
You have more tools than "Harbor Freight"
I enjoy following your work!
Keep up the effort!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Musegh Kalon on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 11:06 pm:

Great work Herm, as always!
Love the detailed pictures!
Can hardly wait for the next series..
M


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Brancaccio - Calgary Alberta on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 11:07 pm:

Thanks Herm. I made a couple of edits mainly to your post at 7:51. You had the comments buried in the picture post, can you check them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 11:24 pm:

I don't know how much you are taking off the drums, that low drum especially. Low drums are so thin to begin with I think it would be better to polish the existing surface and keep as much metal as you can."END QUOTE


The first one was .018 thousandths.

The second one, .011-50 to .012.

I would have taken more if needed.


To just polish a pitted, wore, and warped drum O.D. is not rebuilding.

High and low spots on drums give bad band surface. It seamed important enough when they were new.

If all it takes is a few missing thousandths to blow a drum, better get a Model A, Right Dan.

I have always turned the drums, and would never put a Transmission together with out it.

I am sorry Ted that your experience with all your thin low drums that you cut the O.D.'s on, blew up on you, that IS from all your experience isn't it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 11:29 pm:

Thanks Herm. I made a couple of edits mainly to your post at 7:51. You had the comments buried in the picture post, can you check them. "END QUOTE"


Thanks Chris, I was wondering where those Puppies went.

Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 11:32 pm:

I stand by my opinion.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 12:49 am:

Thanks Herm,

You show us How it should be done.

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 09:05 pm:

More

Pictures Showing Dial points
Pictures Showing Dial points





Showing center Point that was making the shaft off center, I cleaned it up, and it centered
Showing center Point that was making the shaft off center, I cleaned it up, and it centered


Hold the fingers back.
Hose clamp to hold the fingers back

centering brake drum in 4 Jaw.
Centering brake drum in 4 Jaw

Wake up Ken.





Brake drum, and Tail Shaft, and also Main shaft now in perfect Alginment.
Brake drum, Tail Shaft, and also Main shaft now in perfect Alginment


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 09:12 pm:

Chris, I don't see any thing to make sure the captions come out?



I for got to say we only put in one of the two Brake Drum bushing, and that is on the Gear end.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Brancaccio - Calgary Alberta on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 11:36 pm:

Herm, the captions are supposed to show up when you hold the mouse over the picture. It works on Internet Explorer but not on Chrome. I use mostly Chrome, I find it is faster. I don't use the captions field, I would rather put the comments in between the pics so you see them all the time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 11:40 pm:

Yes, I like that also, Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 02:06 am:

This should be an article in the Vintage.
Is there a way to save this?
Herm, Why do you use only one bushing on the brake drum??

Thanks Herm

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 08:59 am:

Nice work on the bushing replacement Herm but no way I would machine those beautiful drums to make them shiny. I didn't see any defects other than perhaps some tiny pits, perhaps those were surface casting defect spots? Those little spots wouldn't affect anything.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 12:10 pm:

Yes, they were rust pitted, and the drums are just about always not true from band wear.

Trueing them makes them round to the center, and a 100% band contact.

To me, with out Trueing the drums would be like putting on New brake shoes, and not true the drums, that makes every thing New again.

The only drum I didn't turn was J&M Machines New brake drum, as it dialed Zero.

Thanks Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 01:12 pm:

Herm, Why do you use only one bushing on the brake drum?? "END QUOTE"

I leave them out because they are not needed. Ford left them out in late 1925, and later.

The only way the oil gets into the Brake Drum bushings is the hole in the Drum shaft, or what can get in the ends of the bushings.

With the inside bushing left out, that whole cavity from the Driven Gear, to the Drive Plate bushing is oiled, and acts as an oil well.

It is also harder to Align 3 bearings, rather than two.

With 2 Bearings you can bore them separate, as long as they are straight with the housings, but with 3 or more, they have to be align Bored, or align reamed.






Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Brancaccio - Calgary Alberta on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 02:32 pm:

Herm, do you balance the drums?

How is the balance on the new J&M drum?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Brancaccio - Calgary Alberta on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 02:33 pm:

Herm, would you mind if we made this into an article and put it in the Vintage Ford?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 03:33 pm:

Herm, do you balance the drums?

How is the balance on the new J&M drum? "END QUOTE"

We have the drums Balanced if the owner wants it.

But we always balance the Flywheel.

We have had only one Balanced from J&M Machine. It was off a little, but so are the Originals, and a lot more. They sure have the Originals beat by far. I don't think you could cast a piece like that and get any kind of balance.

Every thing is balanced from the wheels on out modern car to air craft parts.


Herm, would you mind if we made this into an article and put it in the Vintage Ford? "END QUOTE"


I don't think there is any thing most people would want to look at, but Knock your self out.


Thanks Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 09:09 pm:

Got the Triple Gear pins in the mail today, and have to polish out .000-50 thousandths on the bearing part of the pin.

I will have to take .001 thousandths off the part that press's into the flywheel.

That will leave a .003 thousandths press on the pins, and a .003 clearance on the Gear Bushing.

Polishing Triple Gear Pins to size.

Polishing Triple Gear Pins to size.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 10:07 pm:

Herm, do you always replace all the bushings or just the worn out ones? I have heard several times that replacing the bushings makes for a noisy transmission but, I would think as long as everything was done right there would be no problem.

Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Friday, July 26, 2013 - 12:42 am:

Herm, do you always replace all the bushings or just the worn out ones? I have heard several times that replacing the bushings makes for a noisy transmission but, I would think as long as everything was done right there would be no problem."END QUOTE"

I have never taken a Transmission apart, that was good enough to just clean up, and put back together, for my own, or a customer.

The transmissions will run wore out, if not to bad, as will the rest of the motor.

The problem comes in when the bushings wear to much, and then start taking out the gears on a drum, or triple gear that could have been saved.

If the triple gears are left go to long, with .004 thousandths, on up, and as all triple gear pressure is to the outside, the gear will run tipped on the shaft, and the teeth will eat into the flywheel, and ruin the gear surface, and or the flywheel.

As far as the noise, I have never heard one any different then another, outside of the ones that need fixed.

If you have grinding, scraping, knocking, ect., something was over looked.

Many transmissions are left with the old triple gear pins. A typical triple gear pin is .002 thousandths out of round, and it is always on the high pressure side on the gear. So, if you fit the new bushing with .003 to the largest diameter, with wear of .002 at its lowest, now the clearance is .005, and the triple gear has no choice, but to run cocked.

So, when the triple gear runs cocked, it will tear up the teeth on the driven gear, and the drums.

The last thing, when I get time, I will take some Mic readings on my N.O.S. drums and triple gears, as they are factory reamed, and that should put to rest the difference of opinion on what the clearances should be, as these will be Ford factory Spec's.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Pearson on Friday, July 26, 2013 - 08:12 am:

Great post Herm!
The transmission I am currently running was machined mostly in the same manner as you detail. It was a time consuming process to go through but worth the effort in the end. All bushings were changed and all 3 drums were skimmed on the outside just enough to true the surface for the same reason you stated. I found that it took anywhere from .008 to .018 to achieve a true surface matching the gear or shaft. If more I would have used a different drum. I also balanced the drums and match weighted the triple gears.
I will borrow a couple of your ideas to on my next project.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By CharlieT on Friday, July 26, 2013 - 09:54 am:

Herm,

This is a great post........... Thanks!

What is the title, and who is the author, of the book you have shown in several of your posts? Do you know where I could obtain a copy?

Thanks again, and I always enjoy your posts.

Charlie


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Friday, July 26, 2013 - 01:23 pm:

Help your self Charlie.

Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Friday, July 26, 2013 - 01:33 pm:

Charlie:

The book is the Model T Service Manual.

Original copies and used reprints are available through eBay and used book sellers on sites such as Amazon.com or Abebooks.com.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=model+t+ford+service+book&_osacat=0&_from=R 40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xmodel+t+ford+service+manual&_nkw=model+ t+ford+service+manual&_sacat=0

New reprints are readily available from vendors such as Lang's:

http://www.modeltford.com/item/T1.aspx


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Friday, July 26, 2013 - 01:34 pm:

Sorry Charlie, I read your post again, and the two pictures that are above are out of the Ford Service Bulletin Essentials.

Any parts house should have them.

Thanks Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By CharlieT on Friday, July 26, 2013 - 01:57 pm:

Herm and Erik,

Thanks for the information and Erik, thanks for the links. I'm going to order a copy for my library.

Charlie


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Friday, July 26, 2013 - 07:55 pm:

The 1.560 is how far back I cut the tail shaft for the Ball cap, no matter if it is ball bearing, or babbitt. This motor will get babbitt.

I will polish out the tail shaft tomorrow, and cut the ball cap.









By the way, that clamp, and switch is my automatic shut off switch.

By the way, that clamp and switch is my automatic shut off switch.





Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Sunday, July 28, 2013 - 10:59 pm:

More Pictures

Polished, before polshing

Polished, before polishing

can still see the lines after the 1500 grit, but can't with the finger nail.

Can still see the lines after the 1500 grit, but can't with the finger nail.

Aligning the ball cap at the only place that comes close to the center every time.

Aligning the ball cap at the only place that comes close to the center every time.











Ruffed out babbitt at high speed, .020 left to go.

Ruffed out babbitt at high speed, .020 left to go.

If you want something that gets right to the 1/10 of a thousandths every time, these are what will do it. they are call inside Mic's, or also Post Mic's

If you want something that gets right to the 1/10 of a thousandths every time, these are what will do it. They are call inside Mic's, or also Post Mic's.



Putting in the oil groove.

Putting in the oil groove.







Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Monday, July 29, 2013 - 09:26 pm:

More Pictures



Made for pressing out the pins, but normally I just take a big hammer and knock them out.

Made for pressing out the pins, but normally I just take a big hammer and knock them out.



I oil the pinsI use a dead blow to tap them in}

I oil the pins. I use a dead blow to tap them in.



I use 1/2 of a Model T wrist pin to push the pin to level.

I use 1/2 of a Model T wrist pin to push the pin to level.



I use 1/4 inch coarse, X 2"  bolts, and tap the flywheel.

I use 1/4 inch coarse X 2" bolts and tap the flywheel.

My boy made this to use flywheels on.

My boy made this to use flywheels on.

It goes up, down, and turns so you can work on the Magnets, or what I am doing.

It goes up, down, and turns so you can work on the Magnets, or what I am doing.





I hold a big hammer under the bolt to take the stress of the threads when peening.

I hold a big hammer under the bolt to take the stress of the threads when peening.

small taps, no big hits.

Small taps, no big hits.











oil the inside of the gear, and shaft

Oil the inside of the gear and shaft





















Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Monday, July 29, 2013 - 10:25 pm:

Herm, your pictures are making me excited to get my 26 coupe back together. :-)

Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Monday, July 29, 2013 - 11:11 pm:

A couple of things here.

After you press on the driven gear, it just about always makes the brake drum bushing go smaller, and from the two keys pushing in on the bushing that you should always run the reamer through again to size the hole where it was.

The other thing is the clutch spring pin should be cleaned up so the pin can be placed by hand, instead of having to pound it in.

Thanks Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 08:17 pm:

More Pictures, Band Building

We  media blast, "Black Diamond", no dirt, make sure there is nothing caught under the end that is riveted on., clean, clean, clean.

We media blast, "Black Diamond", no dirt, make sure there is nothing caught under the end that is riveted on. clean, clean, clean.

As they come out of the box.

As they come out of the box.

I mark an inch.

I mark an inch.

I use a metal shears to cut the 1 inch off.

I use a metal shears to cut the 1 inch off.

Cut off.

Cut off.

What I use to seal the ends from raveling, way better then what was on them out of the box.

What I use to seal the ends from raveling, way better then what was on them out of the box.



I spray on a slick paper, so it don't soak in so fast, or wax paper.

I spray on a slick paper, so it don't soak in so fast, or wax paper.

3 Pieces cut in 1/2.

3 Pieces cut in 1/2.

This is two coats.

This is two coats.



K.R. Wilson rivet machine.

K.R. Wilson rivet machine.









Check to make sure bands match drums.

Check to make sure bands match drums.

Rivet seated on the inside.

Rivet seated on the inside.



The ends of the bands out further then the band ears, so they don't gouge the drum surface.

The ends of the bands out further then the band ears, so they don't gouge the drum surface.





Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Darren J Wallace on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 08:47 pm:

Thanks for posting Herm!
This has been a great post! Enjoyed it all so far!
Nice to see the different machine tools and other goodies others like yourself are using!
The pictorial progression is very well presented!
Bravo!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 12:13 am:

Transmission assembly:Three small holes for zero balance.This I made about 40 years ago to fit the bottom of the main shaft to hold it in the flywheel while I put the transmission togather.Removing weight to get the gears to weigh all the same. one was 4 grams heavier, and the other is 6 grams.I never have tied, or wired the 3 gears to the drums to put the unit on, I just hold the gears and drums together and set them on the triple gear shafts.You can now see the out sides of the gears are tipped down, just pull up on the gears on the out side, while holding the drums, and it will slide into place.New set of stock plates. This Transmission was built by somebody else, mant things had to be fixed.I like to set free travel at .015, but had to settle for .016 on this one.Lock bolt wired.oil clutch plates.Line up the 3 studs on the push ring.put the two Witness marks together, or line them up, as this is where there isn't any resistance on the main shaft.oil the screws, and set them where they just touch the push ring studs.use only the flate surface, and not on the rivets.Don't forget to put in the tail shaft plug, and seal it. I use Indian Head gasket cement.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 12:18 am:

Chris, I don't know what I am doing wrong, but the picture captions are just not coming out?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 01:36 am:

I just Wonder:
Why do you cut the band lining in half and are you leaving a gap in the middle of the lining? Is this for a better cooling and oiling of the bands??
What is the red stuff you add on the bands at each end??

This real a great writing and should be saved in a manuel.
Thanks

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 01:03 pm:

I read about the band lining method in a Dykes automotive book when I was a kid. It made sense, so I have always done it that way.

It leaves a one inch gap at the bottom for oiling.

With out the stiffness in that missing band area, the band is left to be able to flex more so all the band will contact at all the band, not just some areas.

The bands as they come out of the box do not have enough goop on some ends to keep them from raveling.

There is already a picture of this, but this is red electrical insulation paint which I get at an electric motor shop.


Thanks Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 01:10 pm:

Herm, do you ever install wood linings? Do you see any benefits to cutting them like you do kevelar?

Thanks,
Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 02:29 pm:

Thanks Herm,

For your answer on my question about the space in the lining.
Next question is the same as Stephen's.

Thanks again for this post on the forum. I rebuild a few transmission but with this post I am learning a lot and find solutions on a few problems I had before.

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 02:32 pm:

I don't know anything about wood linings except what is discuss on the forum here.

Thanks Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roar Sand on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 08:55 pm:

Herm,
Impressive attention to detail!
Roar


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 09:05 pm:

I know Herm sometimes has a way with words....... ha ha .......but when I put Kevlar linings in my '27 Tudor I did it the Kohnke Way........and I'm glad I did!....... :-)

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/269410.html


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