Hello, I have a 1927 Model T Touring that was rebuilt about 20 years ago. The brake band I think needs adjustment as I push all the way to the floor and it barely slows the car, I have to use the hand brake to stop the car. I haven't tried adjusting the band yet, but noticed a clunking sound from transmission when I'm driving. It's more noticeable when I apply the brake. I have read the other posts about the rear axle, but we rebuilt that with the bronze thrust plates 20 years ago. The car has had less than 2hrs run time total since being rebuilt. Could loose bands make a clunking sound? It only makes the noise when the car is in motion.
Any information is greatly appreciated, I rebuilt this car with my father as a kid and now he has passed it down to me. It had never even been driven.
First thing to do is take the inspection cover off the hogs head and have a look inside. You are going to have to take the cover off anyways to adjust the brake band (if it needs it - which is probably the case if the pedal hits the floor and doesn't stop the car).
Make sure you take the ignition key out before removing the cover - it is a straight drop into the trans if it happens to fall out
Have some one help by turning it over with hand crank,and see if one /or more of the drums are cracked.
Don't know the answer to that one but the first place to start is to remove the transmission cover and look. If everything is OK Then adjust the bands
I would be a bit concerned that something might have dropped in the transmission The clunking and loose brake band may be connected if the nut has dropped off the band. If that is the case you need to go on a scavenger hunt by draining the oil and feeling in drain hole to see if you find a loose part
Why can't I put a white ball in the hole on a golf course but when I take the cover off my T transmission everything goes in the hole ?
^ BECAUSE.......according to your profile........you're on the FIRST T!.......
Craig - good one!
Brent - lots to see inside that cover - could possibly a magnet screw backing out.......don't ask me how I know....
Thanks guys, I will check it out tomorrow.
Good tip about the key! My luck it would fall in. I had just changed the oil when it started making this noise, it had straight 50, and I switched to Rotella T 15W40. I don't imagine that would make any difference though?
Here is a picture of it, just need to finish upholstery and shine her up!
Even the wife(?) is smiling! ALWAYS a good thing.......
I LIKE that car.....a LOT.
(RATS I wish we could edit posts....... )
ANYWAY........I especially like the wood spoke wheels.
That's what my '27 Tudor has too.
I know lots of people go gaga over wire wheels but in my mind a T looks too new with wire wheels.
Don't attach in the center of the axle for towing. I have one that will show you why.
Brent, also check the pedal to see if it may be bent. You can straighten it cold if needed, carefully.
Steve has one of everything!
Except a full wallet!
Okay, so I tightened the bands, brake works ALOT better now. When for a quick drive down street and back, still the same noise, thought maybe it was the speedometer gear as I noticed it wasn't meshing quite right, but I fixed that, still no luck. I put the car on blocks, and tried turning the rear wheels, when I turn the rear passenger wheel there is a point where it gets stiff, I tried pulling on each of the wheels to see if there is any play, but they are nice and tight. I also checked the oil in the rear end, it looks ok to me. Any ideas?
Universal joint ?
When you tighten the bands, be sure not to tighten them too much. They should get tight when the pedal is about one inch above the floorboard. If they are any tighter, you run the risk of drag while the car is running. This could overheat and crack the drums. The clunk could be anything from an engine which does not run smoothly at idle, to any play or slop between the flywheel and the rear wheels. If the clunk appears when the brake is applied, it is not likely to be in the transmission, but in the universal joint, or even the square spline at the front of the universal joint. The hole in the driven plate could be worn causing the spline to move back and forth, or it could be play in the gears on the differential. Not necessarily a serious problem, but one to find so that you can be more sure what is causing, and what could be done to fix it.
U joint or the drive shaft front bushing thrust collar cracked off. ws
ok, so next step I guess is pulling the rear end off to check u-joint and differential. Maybe it is the differential, I was only 15 when I rebuilt it. Engine seems to run ok, it only makes the noise when wheels are in motion, the faster the speed, the worse the sound.
"Maybe it is the differential"? I would be hoping it is the u-joint. LOTS easier to fix.
Another thing which could make a noise would be a loose nut on the rear axle. This nut should be 100 ft lbs. If it is loose, it would make a loud "Click" when you apply the brake, or when switching from forward to reverse. Usually it would only click once when the brake is first applied, or when you start to back up or go forward. The noise, although being at the rear wheel can sometimes sound as though it is in the transmission. A similar problem exists within the rear end where the pinion gear is fastened to the driveshaft. If the latter is a problem, it could lead to serious failure of the differential and should be fixed as soon as possible. You would need to remove the drive shaft tube from the differential to fix it, and depending on which gear you have might need to remove one side of the rear axle housing.
If your brake drum were cracked it would make more of a chattering noise rather than a clunk. Your problem could be the torque tube ball being loose in it's socket. To check for this: take out the floor boards now pull back and forth on the hand brake lever while watching the ball. If it moves at all you will need to place a shim between the ball and the cap. If this is not your problem then pull the rear end.
When the rear end was checked out the '20 Coupe I had it turned out the differential was fine except for the damage done to the pinion due to WAY excessive wear on the upper bronze bushing flange.
It did not "clunk".......it crunched.......it was awful.
Even though it wasn't necessary I replaced the joint at the same time. Everything fit like a glove and no facing was required on the bushing flange face.......
when I turn the rear passenger wheel there is a point where it gets stiff, I tried pulling on each of the wheels to see if there is any play, but they are nice and tight.
Remove the rear wheel that is hanging up and inspect the iron brake shoe, maybe that is cause of the clicking, rubbing. Or else the shoe could be hitting a hub nut or other place for interference.