Model T cutout to voltage regulator - swap over questions...

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Model T cutout to voltage regulator - swap over questions...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mitch on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 06:10 am:

Ok, so I found out my voltage regulator is buggered (that's Australian for screwed!) See attachment.
I'm a little confused how to go about the changeover, the instructions call for checking the third brush, seems straight forward enough, but my ammeter doesn't work, so how can I check the output from the generator without frying the new regulator?
I'm not sure whether the fault is with the ammeter itself, or where a connection fault might be.
I don't have access to a spare one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 06:48 am:

The ammeter is integral to the charging circuit. If it doesn't work the generator cannot work.

You can start by checking continuity (connections) using a basic volt ohm meter. Obviously before that you could just check to see that every wire is connected properly and not corroded or broken.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 11:02 am:

You must get your ammeter working to correctly install your VR. What year is your T?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mitch on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 08:07 pm:

My T is 1925, and has a new ignition switch from Snyders.
It has a different contact layout to the original Ford switch... it has the coil contact in the center, and appears to have two BATTERY contacts next to each other, which are connected to each other with a brass plate.... there's also GROUND contact next to that -- I'm confused!

I have done a test on the ammeter, turns out it's working fine. But it's not working in the wiring loom in the car -- I turn on the lights, no response from the ammeter.
I connected a spare headlamp bulb directly from the tracer wire to the generator terminal, (bypassing the cutout which I removed) and got a 4 amp reading on the ammeter... But when I switch on the headlamps, the meter doesn't move.
Any ideas where the fault could be?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 10:43 pm:

Mitch,

This is a picture I got off the forum of a switch on a 26/27 plate. It looks like what you describe but I believe the dim and bright identification may be reversed from actual. Coil should be in the center and the switch contact wipes from Mag to the inner Battery connection.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 10:44 pm:

Forgot to mention, Fun Projects makes an excellent ammeter for pre 26 cars. If yours is questionable I'd recommend one of those.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Monday, July 22, 2013 - 10:59 pm:

Mitch:

You have a wiring error near the ammeter most likely. Trace these 5 wires end to end and verify they are in the correct places:

1) Yellow/wBlack tracer #12 AWG wire from cutout(or VR) screw terminal to firewall terminal block position #1 (terminal closest to the center line of the car).

2) Yellow/wBlack tracer #12 AWG wire from firewall terminal block position #1 to BAT terminal (either one) on your ignition switch.

3) Short Yellow/wBlack tracer #12 AWG wire from the other BAT terminal (or the same one if you only have one) to one side of the ammeter.

4) Solid Yellow #12 AWG wire from the other side of the ammeter to firewall terminal block position #3. (3rd one over from #1)

5) Solid Yellow #12 AWG wire from firewall terminal block position number 3 to the battery side connection on the foot starter switch.

I suspect you have a mistake at the ignition switch such that you have bypassed the ammeter by connecting the ignition switch to the battery side of the ammeter. At no point does a solid yellow wire connect to a yellow/wBlack tracer wire directly. All of the yellow/black wires are on one side of the ammeter and all of the solid yellow ones are on the other side.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 03:38 pm:

Mitch:

What you are calling a voltage regulator, to me, resembles a diode style cut-out..... corrosion on wire terminals.

Never opened up Regan's voltage regulator so I may not really know of what I speak.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Tuesday, July 23, 2013 - 03:53 pm:

No you got it right but I think he knows that he is swapping a cutout to a voltage regulator. The thing that concerns me is that the cutout clearly has been opened up noting the wire is completely devoid of solder which means that the generator has been running without any load on it which usually burns out the field winding in the generator or sometimes tosses the solder out of the armature. Neither is much fun to repair and usually spells the need for professional help with the generator unless the owner has unusual skill at motor rebuilding.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 09:44 pm:

Mitch, whatever you do, follow Johns instructions for the VR TO THE LETTER, and you will have no problems if your generator is in goo shape. KB


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