Potmetal: What metal is compatible?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Potmetal: What metal is compatible?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 02:47 pm:

I want to replace the rusty steel hardware on a potmetal carb body. Which is better: brass or stainless?

Local Ace has brass slot head in 10-32, but not stainless.

Is socket head T era correct?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Miller, Sequim WA on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 03:07 pm:

Rick I have seen stainless and brass on most pot metal Carbs throughout the years. Pot metal is mostly Zinc and works well with almost anything.
As far a I know only slotted heads were used on the T's as the Phillips came later on and Socket head Cap Screws much later than Phillips. I think you would do better with these screws from a place like McMaster Carr.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 04:29 pm:

Stainless is more compatible. Die cast (pot metal) contains aluminum and zinc. Zinc and brass will corrode quickly if mated. The zinc ion in die cast will oxidize the copper in brass.

I'm not sure of the age of socket-head cap screws. I've seen equipment from the 40s with them but don't know if they're original. I suspect they are more modern than the T. Canada did use square drive screws during the T era though.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John W. Oder - Houston, Texas on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 04:55 pm:

1936 was first standard on the socket head cap screws, then the standard was revised 1960


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Miller, Sequim WA on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 05:34 pm:

Boy you caught me Ken, your right now that I am thinking, Brass cross shafts only came in the Cast iron Carbs. Brain Fart!!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 07:50 pm:

McMaster has the fillister head screws I'd like to use, but they come in boxes of 100 for $6++, and I need only a few for a couple of Winfields.

Thanks for the info, guys.

Gotta' replace these Phillips.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 08:03 pm:

Whyncha' just use straight-slot screws?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 08:08 pm:

Fred - It won't happen overnight and it takes moisture. Brass has zinc in it but it's the reason it browns and pits with age. Plain steel screws will work too. It would help if they were blackened (phosphate, gun blue or tool black). The question was which is better.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 08:09 pm:

I'm fresh out of plain screws, Mike. Besides, they are too broad, just like the Phillips, above. The fillister heads are the right width, although the locations don't want the extra torque possible with the deep slot.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John W. Oder - Houston, Texas on Saturday, July 27, 2013 - 08:19 pm:

I still have some new S/S 10-32 X 1/2" straight slot fillisters Ralph - if they are something you can use there I'd be happy to mail a quantity to you.

PM me a mailing address and quantity


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