Is there such a thing as a 9/16 square end socket with 1/2 inch drive which would make it easy to torque the front and center mains on a T engine? Thanks.
I bought my 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 square drive socket sets at Sears. They are Craftsman brand.
You shouldn't torque from the square end anyway. Use the nut end. Reading torque from the square end (the bolt head) includes twist of the bolt and thus reduced compression force at the point where it's really needed--At the main cap.
I picked this info from this very forum when the forum first got started around 10-12 years ago. A 9/16" 12 point socket from Sears #50741 works great. Mine will be put to good use this morning.
Ken, I agree it is better to torque from the nut end but, there is no way my torque wrench is going to fit in the space between the cylinders. I'm pretty good at estimating how to tighten bolts without a torque wrench but, when it comes to mains and rod bolts, I'd rather have it exact. I will look around some more and see what I can find. Thanks.
You can get creative with an old box wrench an old socket and a welder. It worked for me.
Welding up a special wrench is easy but what will the difference in torque values be? Bud.
If you use a torque wrench with a clawfoot open end, is any adjustment in torque specs (from using a traditional socket) that the wrench reads necessary?
The "adapter" can be snapped onto the torque wrench in 4 different positions, if it is snapped on 90 degrees to the left or right the difference in readings would be minimal.
Thank you, Donald.
The nut on the drivers side between cylinders, I don't think a claw foot could do much without being modified. There is not much swing room even for the correct Ford 12 pt wrench.
Bud, try this one on for size.
Liberated from Skinned Knuckles magazine.
Why would you need to torque them? Ford did not have torque specs for any bolts on a T that I know of. You won't apply to much torque with a standard wrench unless you are awfully strong. I only torque the head bolts as they are easy to get at. KB
Actually there is a torque range for many of the nuts and bolts, its set by the length of the wrench sold or supplied by Ford for each job.
I have always torqued the bolt, and holding the nut. No Difference.
Pull to 80 foot pounds, and I also use new lock washers on the front and center bolts under the nuts, and keys on the rear main.
John – your photo correctly shows the Sears socket is an 8 point.
Many major tool companies made 9/16 double squared (8 point) sockets.
With a little trial and error you may find that regular size 12 point (triple square) sockets,
either fractional or metric may fit some square sizes snugly.
I’m not sure if there is a 12 point match for the 9/16 square.
OK John, I took your advice and went looking for a 12 point socket. I only found one store that had them. I took a bolt with me to be sure. Although the head of the bolt takes a 9/16 open wrench, it is actually a 5/8 that is needed when using a 12 point socket. It fit perfectly and allowed me to torque the mains easily. Thanks for all the great responses. This forum is a real life saver.
Use an 8 point socket. Grabs better than a 12.
If you keep an eye out, 9/16" 4 point sockets come up on the end of a few old tools. I have two, both different brands, each having a different tool at the other end. Perhaps these were made for Ts originally. I get things as tight as I can with a ring spanner and use the socket in the final line up of the split pin holes.
Herm's post has one which looks much like a third one I have which has split at the corners of the socket. A welder will fix it for use.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I think I bought my set of 8 point sockets from McMaster Carr.