Two of the new mae west shackles will not go thru the new bushings. Before I start filing and grinding, do you have any advice on getting it thru, one in the front and one in the rear. WD 40 is not much help.
The one shackle is pushing the bushing out I hit so hard. Not good.
Thank you in advance. BOB
They need to be reamed.
After having been installed, the steel bushing must be reamed to the proper inside diameter before installation of the shackle.
Buy a reamer that is the exact size of the shackle shaft and apply it using a T-handle and some Tap Magic cutting fluid.
Kerry and james, thanks, that makes sense.
Never reamed before. Is this a drill bit that spins and reams the inside diameter? Home Depot variety or is it an Model T specialty size?
If the springs and perches are cleaned out before installing the bushings, the bushings usually don't need reamed. The bushings should install with a light press fit. If you have to beat the bushings in, they'll over-compress and reaming will be necessary as a repair.
The only time I've had to ream them was when I installed them using a hammer. Now I use a bushing driver and a press -- no reaming required.
The original bushings had to be driven in and reamed, always.
The repros are junk compared to the Originals, and they are not even formed the same.
I use only Brass, as the early ones had.
They grease easier, and no rust.
The reamer is a special tool and not a drill. It has straight, sharpened flutes, where a drill has a sharpened nose with spiral flutes meant only to remove shavings.
Any Model T parts store will sell you the reamer, but you can also buy one at ENCO, MSC, or Kerr-McGee. You will need the handle that turns it, plus a small can of cutting fluid.
The original Model T bushings and ones that I have bought new are steel, and they drive in with an arbor press. They can be driven in using a large vise. They are never installed with a hammer! The act of installing the bushing shrinks the bore, which is why it needs to be reamed. If it does not need to be reamed, then it is loose in the perch or in the spring.
I have never seen a rusted steel bushing, as they are generously lubed, but they do wear out. The early brass bushings wore out rapidly, as the forces on the spring/axle assembly are enormous. The axle does not move in a straight, up and down manner when the spring flexes, but it moves in an arc around the pivot point on the radius rod assembly as the spring prefers to move in a linear fashion. That is why it is important that the bushings be installed so tightly, they must be reamed to recover the inside diameter after installation.
The authentic bushing is rolled from a steel flat, and it has a lubrication hole punched in the top, which must be aligned with the corresponding hole in the perch or in the spring.
The original bushings had to be driven in and reamed, always.
Some of the repo shackle bushings are the wrong thickness, requiring reaming. There are replacement bushings that fit great on install. You need to compare the repos to an original and you will see the difference.
I can't imagine why. The Ford tool 28Z186 is the reamer for the "spindle arm and spring perch bushing." Ford Service Bulletin, July 1,1919.
I just got done installing all the bushings, front and rear, on our 27 Fordor. Rears came from Lang's, fronts were NOS. No reaming, nice fit. Steel bushings as original. Maybe you have a little burr that can be dressed out?
Remember when reaming, only turn the ream clockwise, the cutting direction. (The machinists here use this as a test to see if the new guys know what they are doing.)
Use oil, use oil, use oil. and make sure the hole is the right size to ream it. Reams are not drills, and drills are not reams.
Ken, you might make a mental Foot Note
The intelligence of the guys on this forum never fail to amaze me! Thanks for your advice!
This is not a presicion fit where a reamer is absolutely needed - you can buy a drill that'll work from Snyder's for $26 while the reamer that you may use a few times costs $92.50..
I've had success making it fit good enough with a round file
Ed and Ken,
I admit that I was a bit mystified by a) why the bushing ream is not specified in the shop manual, and b) how people manage to install shackles in un-reamed bushings. The steel bushing, after all, is not even perfectly round, to machinist standards, when it comes out of the box, and there's no use reaming it before it is subjected to the stress of installation.
Then it occurred to me: The shop manual does not describe the assembly of a new car. It describes the installation of bushings after the original ones have worn out. The shackles have worn to a similar degree, taking radius off the original journals and making them "egg shaped." Under this condition, there is no sense in making the bushing round and correctly sized.
I think this observation could explain these anomalies. I maintain that new bushings must be reamed correctly before NEW shackles can be installed.
I'm with Herm on this one. Bronze bushings are available over the counter for shackles in our better bearing suppliers. These do need reaming to fit. They give a much more accurate fit and wear well when lubricated appropriately.
Allan from down under.
I use bronze bushings, even on my late T. Shackles are getting hard to find. Chaffins sells the bronze bushings, and they need reaming.
Bronze bushings that don't need reaming to the finished size are not good, hard bronze, bushings.
If you want bushings that don't require reaming buy oilite bushings........and change them every 2 weeks.
My 26 Coupe has Delrin (plastic) shackle bushings that I turned on my lathe on the front axle. It has a bunch of miles on it since they were installed and they don't seem to be loose. Your mileage may vary.
Some very careful work with a good round file worked fine for me!
Paul.....I have to say Delrin is nothing short of remarkable stuff.......
The first time I worked with it was reproducing and repairing some parts that got damaged beyond repair for a Viet Nam era mine sweeper and the parts could not be metallic.
To call it remarkable isn't quite adequate.......it's more like amazing.
Ralph Zajicek, who came up with and manufactured the Z head, turned me onto Delrin for use as bearings about 25 years ago. I have used it in industrial applications and in T's with good results.