Now that I have the 1915 roadster's engine back in the frame, I've removed the blocks to let the body down onto the brackets. Before I bolt it down I want to get some guidance on the fasteners. I'm pretty sure the modern 1/2" bolts that were in there are wrong. They were so tight in the holes that the threads are mashed a little. Given Ford's widespread use of castle nuts and cotter pins, I'm guessing that 7/16 bolts drilled and cottered would be right. Am I on the right track here?
7/16 is correct.
Jack is right. According to Ford their lengths are: front pair, 25/32"; center pair 1"; rear pair 1-9/16".
All drilled and cottered. Correct?
If the bolt holes don't line up you could get your drill out again and make them fit. Just kidding
Yes; each was sold as a "bolt and nut". You had to buy the cotter pin separately, though.
hi .I have built 300 + bodies in the last 35 years.someone needs to tell me why the rear bolt needs to be longer than the frt bolt.??? charley shaver
First let me say welcome to the forum! You are a living legend with more Model T knowledge that many of us combined. I consider it an honor having you here. As for the bolts, could it have something to do with the thick cast brackets that were used on the rear of the frame 1909-1913? Surely they would have changed the length after May 1913, but maybe not.
I measured the thickness of the frame brackets and the rear crossmember thickness of my 15 frame.
The cross member is .020 thicker than the frame brackets. Im sure those kegs of bolts on that assembly line were all 1 & 3/16"inches long. On page 8 of the Parts Identification Guide there is a picture of the 7/16" fine thread bolt, and I would guess it was special due to the large head. So, I made a set up by turning down some old 9/16" bolts with no head markings, and will jig and drill the holes when I measure the body brackets and splash aprons. By the way,by drilling, cutting off and threading the head of these bolts, you have the thick nuts for the truss rods.
rick!! is right on the bolts on 13 back cars.now for the middle bolts why the almost 1/4" longer than the frt ones? when you add the splash apron you get the same thickness as the crossmember.it also seems that ford did away with the castle nuts in the 20s&just put on a hex nut with cotter key,a lot faster.now you know all I know about this.charley
One of the non-stock things I've found on this 1915 is rubber pads between the body and the brackets. Unless there's some good reason to get rid of them, I aim to leave them there. As near as I can tell, with the pads in place the best length for all six bolts is 11/8". I guess I'll find out for sure when I put them in and put the nuts on.