Hi everyone! I just aquired a Model T frame, engine transmission,rear end,and front end that has been sitting outside for a LONG time. Two spark plugs are missing and when I pulled the head, both of those cylinders were full of water.Engine is froze up. I have removed everything in preparation to pull the motor/trans. but I can't turn the engine to align the u-joint to remove the pin. I can't find any info in my collection of books etc. that tells me how I can separate the motor from the trans. I have the hogshead off but still can't see how to separate the two. Any suggestions? I have been putting P.B.Blaster in the cylinders and everywhere else that I can get to and tapping on the pistons with a hammer and a block of wood. Thanks for any responses and or suggestions
You don't have to remove the pin. The U-joint shaft fits into the back of the transmission without a pin to hold it in. Just remove the four bolts around the ball cap. The whole unit should then slide forward.
The transmission is attached to the crankshaft by 4 bolts that are safety wired. Pull the engine, separate the block from the pan, put the block on an engine stand, rotate the unit so that the nose is up vertically, tail down.
This will expose the 4 bolts at the flywheel.
At the point the Service manual would be a wise investment.
I think only the bottom 2 are wired. The top 2 are cottered, I believe.
Robert, if the pistons are frozen in the two rusty bores, the crankshaft cannot be turned and you will not be able to get a wrench on the four bolts holding the transmission to the flange on the rear of the crankshaft.
You may have to disconnect the connecting rods and remove the main bearing caps so you can lift the crankshaft and attatched transmission out as a unit.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I have taken the bolts out of the crank on a frozen engine. Its not a problem. Easier if it turns but not a problem if its locked up.
Sometimes you have to torch the rods to get the crank out, it really depends on where the engine stopped when it last ran
I loosened the main caps and removed the rod caps and was able to turn the assembly just enough to get the 4 bolts out. 6 out of 8 valves are stuck and won't let the cam turn enough to rotate fully. Got the tranny off. Then I took off the main caps and pulled the crank out. Managed to get 3 of the pistons out. Will try the other one from the top tomorrow. I have the service manual. All I have left is the #1 piston, the camshaft and the stuck valves. Any ideas on the stuck valves? THANKS Steve
Steve, when I discovered my 1912 motor it was a frozen lump of components with a rats nest thrown in for good measure. If you are not trying to save the valves you can do what I was forced to do. With an angle grinder, I cut through the valve stems and springs to remove a section of each valve stem. This gave enough room to drive the tappets up from below, far enough to let the camshaft be extracted.
Once the cam was out of the way, the valves could be punched out from below, using a drift through the tappet holes. These are drastic measures, but to save a 1912 block, it had to be done. Then the clean block was basically re-machined and re-sleeved back to standard. I too torched the rods to get them out, and the pistons came out in pieces too. Once free of these, the bearing caps had to come off, so the rest could be lifted out as a large piece. It wasn't until I could get at the 4 trans to crankshaft bolts that I could split them, and then made the pleasing discovery of an assembly date of 9 26 12 stamped on the trans shaft.
Just for interest.
Allan from down under.
Take your time with the valves. Hit them with a torch, allow them to cool, spray with penetrating oil. Keep repeating this until you can get a little rotation. Once you get them to rotate a bit you can apply penetrant while rotating back and forth until they break free.
Piston = same process.