I once read that if a predator eats one of the legs off a Starfish, the leg grows back.
I've ALSO read that if a predator eats the entire Starfish, except for a leg, that leg will grow into a complete Starfish.
Model T's seem to have that trait. A few parts brought home, and it tries to grow into a complete car!
Well, I bought both the frames with wheels that were on an earlier posting, "What are these and how much should I pay?"
I know that many, if not all, the lug nuts will be frozen. Any suggestions as to loosening them for removal?
Lastly, with all the postings about wooden wheels, do you consider wire wheels, as long as they are in good to excellent shape, to be sturdier than wood?
I love this hobby!
On my T turned Seed wagon turned T again project I got away with using PB blaster and wrenches. A couple I had to use an 8" pipe wrench and vice-grips. They all eventually came off, with a grinder only needed on one. Others will point you to acetone and ATF. I have used it, but found the same results with PB blaster if I couldn't submerge the part.
I used a 12 point wrench, and had little slippage. Light taps with a deadblow hammer helped too. Just watch your pinchpoints, my nail grew back but it hurt a bunch.
Good for you!
I have run both wood and wire wheels. I like the look of both. I think if you have sound wood, wood wheels they are fine. But if you are unsure at all I would spend the money and have them respoked by one of the excellent wheel wrights that have been mentioned on the forum. You do have to wonder about wood (even well cared for) that is approaching 100 yrs old in the this type of use. (just my opinion). Steve has a great posting on here of his construction and use of the Regan wheel press. It could be a do it yourself project.
That said, I have a set of wires on the touring, they look great and no split rim to mess with! And the speedster I would like to build one day will likely get the other set I have but I do have a set of 21" wood that would look awful sharp varnished natural.... hummm...
I little heat from the blue wrench might help on the lug nuts that are balky. You may just be surprised they may come off easier than you think.
Of course the will always be one that will be stubborn.
Good luck and post photos if you can.
Thank you, guys. Question...are front and back wheels supposed to be the same size, and use the same size tires?
To a '26 - '27 fan, that is undoubtedly a lame question, but I genuinely don't know the answer.
Larry, is the blue wrench an acetylene torch? I thought I better ask rather than call NAPA and confuse not only myself, but the man there.
By the way, how far are you from Frederick, MD? Until I looked at your profile, I thought Severn was a specialty, and that you were a doctor!
I've taken multiple pictures, but until Bailey gets home next week, I can't post them because I don't know how to shrink them down to 200K.
Wood wheels are stronger than most people would expect PROVIDED the wood is the correct type, in good condition, AND the wheel is tight.
There have been many threads on the subject, some of them very long. A few of us just have to agree to disagree about wood wheels
A long time ago, I was fortunate to be a part of a group of people that ran T speedsters and racers one weekend per year at the Calistoga Classic Dirt Track Racing Reenactments. We ran the cars a full race speeds around a half-mile dirt track. It was FUN! Wheels were split about one-third each wood, wire, and disc. There was less trouble from the wood wheels than with either of the other two. One funny thing is, wire and disc wheels broke hubs and axles, about six over the four years. One wire wheel buckled.
One wood wheel broke a rear hub. The wood was fine and the wheel repaired quickly (the wheel had stayed on the car). The only wood wheel actually broken during the four years was after the tie rod collapsed resulting in a loss of steering. The wood wheel was broken as a result of hitting the wall.
Those four years are why I trust wood wheels. And one of the reasons I often say that "breaking a wood wheel is usually the result of an impact or collision".
If the wood is the wrong kind of wood (oak is bad), or has been compromised by any rot, it becomes a whole different ballgame. If a good wheel becomes loose, even only a little, wood will wear out fast and the wheel can become dangerous quickly.
I like wood wheels. On antique automobiles I prefer wood wheels. But check them often! And if you find anything loose. Fix it quickly.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Bill -- Yes, wheels and tires are the same size front and back for '26-7's.
Bill, earlier cars with non-demountable rims (and even LATE cars with non-demountable rims (yes, they exist!)) have smaller tires, but larger wheels--the front tires are 30 x 3 which takes a 24" wheel, rear wheels are 30 x 3-1/2, which takes a 23" wheel. ("rim" could be substituted for "wheel" in those statements)
Does doc of mixology count?
I'm about an hour east of Frederick between Baltimore and Annapolis. Yeah the blue wrench is what many of the folks here refer to a torch as. The standard Ford wire wheels are the same size 4.50 21" front and rear. That's what you have.
If I remember the earlier posting they didn't look like they were in that bad of shape.