Anybody know how to replace the reflector in the E&J Model 666? These are on my 14 Touring, and are painted black except for the door and top. The current reflectors are metal and dull.... I can't see how to get them out.
And while we're on the topic, I'd like to know how to attach the glass (original) reflectors on my '14 touring. The glass in one headlight is stuck in there with some kind of tar goop. The other fell out (I have it). My lights, too, are E&J but it's blank where the number should be. Can anyone post some closeup pics? Thanks
Try asking these people.
Harold, your post has me intrigued. On a 1914 car the lights were black steel with brass doors and chimney, as you indicate. But these were model 66, not 666. To the best of my knowledge, the 666 was an all brass light which was last fitted on the 1912 cars. The 66 was offset on the chimney, suggesting the stamping die was modified by just grinding off one of the 6s.
I have a set of all brass 666 headlights in pieces, but they came with 66 chimneys. I would gladly trade them for 666 chimneys if anyone is interested. Otherwise, I could cover the top brand with the rivetted on 666 plates on the earlier lights.
Allan from down under.
The E&J 666 is a black and brass light. The original reflector is glass and was silver plated on the back. When installed in the light there were spacers made of asbestos which were installed between the back of the light and the glass reflector, they served as an insulator to the glass and as a spacer to insure a tight fit of the reflector. The spacer was round but not solid as it looked like the letter "o", I have seen two or three of them in a light. The reflector is held in with a steel ring with three rivets sticking out of the outside which fit into three slots which are angular so as to tighten as it is spun into place. The ring is only 270deg. around and the slots are hidden in the two lower vents and the top chimney. You can tap it to loosen it and pry out one end and work it to the front of the light, just be careful to not brake or damage the reflector. Good luck Steve
I meant to say the 1913-14 666 light was a steel and brass light.
Allan, these are definitely 666, stamped on the chimney.
Steve, thanks for the input! OK, mystery solved. My lights have no reflectors! All I'm seeing is the bare steel back. I'd love to put in the glass reflectors, with the "O" spacers. Know where I can find them? Maybe Snyders' Part #T6590E? I'll measure....
Just took another look. There are no steel rings in there to hold the reflector in place. Also, I don't see the 3 angular slots Steve mentions into which the ring is placed. Now I'm puzzled again....
Harold, if the inside of the back of the light is plated like a reflector it is very possible that the light may be a reproduction. There is a 656 light on e bay (360713843376) that has some good pictures. The screw on the bottom is the lock on the ring once removed it can be rotated to unlock. I was incorrect when I said the two pins were on the bottom they are on the top with the locking screw on the bottom. Steve
Steve, I think it's a reproduction. It could be plated, but if it is, it's gone pretty dull. However, there is no screw on the bottom, and no slots for a retaining ring. Another giveaway (I think) is that the back of the chimney has no arc-shaped vent, only the two holes. The lights are in very good condition, though, so I plan to keep them. I'll find a way to put a glass reflector in them, maybe your spacer idea plus silicone....
I really appreciate your help on this one !!!
Harold, I checked in Bruce McCalley's "From Here to Obscurity" and he lists models 666, 66 and later 656 as being used on brass and steel lights, so we are all good. It makes sense that if your lights are reproductions, the maker made them model 666 chimneys,as these could be used on earlier all brass lights too.
Allan from down under.
I'm very sure this E&J 666 light is an older Gilbert Metal Products reproduction. The ones made in the 1960's and 1970's had aluminum reflectors which have a tendency to dull over time. Getting the metal reflectors out is a real pain as the body of the light will have to be almost completely disassembled in order for the back to be snapped off. Probably your best bet is leave them in place and install a new one on top of them.
Harold, I purchases a pair of those repo 666 lights at Hershey a long time ago. The seller included glass reflectors. Original ones used to be available from the manufacturers who were then still in business. From memory they were Pyrex heat proof glass. Virtually the same reflectors were used in traffic lights ( and maybe still are) which is what my ones are. Old Traffic lights seemed to be fairly common in second hand shops and swap meets so could be easy to obtain. Maybe someone here has a source for you.
Well, all that is very interesting but, I sure could use some pictures especially to illustrate what Harold described.
Can anyone tell me why my E&J lights do not have a number? They haven't been rubbed out as all the other usual wording is still very much in evidence.
All brass E&J with no information on them are from 1911.
You guys are amazing! I'm truly grateful for all your posts!! I'm going to find glass reflectors and put them on top of what is already there, which I believe is just the back of the housing. Here are some pix so you can see what I'm talking about ....
harold, there is a guy in Adelaide, Australia who does magic work on brass lamps and horns of all makes. He has glass reflectors made using plain mirror glass. They are slubbed under heat to get the curvature. They would be a better fit over your aluminium items than the thick glass of originals.
He is in England at the moment at the big swap meet the y hold each year. Send me a private message if you would like to contact him.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Thanks, Steve. Good to know although my touring is a 1914. And thanks to all for the info.
I just noticed that your burner tip is on wrong. The "Y" should be front to back or 90 degrees from the way it is now.
I like your method for the electrical conversion and the height adjustment.
Thanks Keith, but I can't take credit for it. Dick Travers, former owner, did it. I plan to fine tune it a little....